It was my second day in Arunachal Pradesh as a part of the "Explore Beyond" campaign introduced by the state's tourism department. After following the women bikers, who were on a four-day expedition across the state, from Namdapha to Bomjir, I was convinced I'd seen the best of nature's beauty and every shade of green known to humankind. But the conviction lapsed as soon as I embarked on a three-hour drive to Parshuram Kund.
Even the 118 km journey, which otherwise would have been a strenuous affair in any other place, seemed to fly by. Zooming past stretches of tea estate, punctuated by small villages and dense forests, it is easy to forget the number of hours spent cramped in a car.
Having heard about the glorious tale of how the Kund came to attain religious significance, I was excited to see it in person. But on a journey this beautiful, it is easy to catch yourself silently wishing that the road goes on, as dense forests, sprawling mustard fields and tea gardens against the big blue sky keep constant company.
The Temple Complex
But before you know it, the smooth yet winding roads lead to an unassuming parking area lined with shops selling beaded bracelets, framed images of sage Parshurama, and key rings. It looks like a typical setting, and I quickly bury all my expectations. Until I am guided towards the flight of stairs leading to a temple with coral-pink-coloured walls, marking the beginning of the temple complex.
Even though the Kund, standing erect right in the centre of the gushing Lohit river, is the main attraction, it is not the first to greet visitors. Before the steep descent towards the Kund begins, two temples dedicated to sage Parshurama and Lord Vishnu fall on the way. These two temples have a simple and predictable facade, without any specific features or architectural styles to set them apart from each other or any other temple in the area.
The priest in one of the temples informed us that it had only been a few decades since the temples were constructed. But the Kund had always attracted devotees, much before the construction was conceived.
The Legend Of The Kund
From there on, we started our descent towards the Kund&ndashan imposing conical rock formation around which the river flows. Devotees of all ages and from all over the country visit this very point to wash away their sins, just as sage Parshurama did.
A close-up of the kund, around which River Lohit flows
As the story goes, lord Parshurama's father commanded him to behead his mother, Renuka, with his axe. Upon doing so, the axe got stuck to his hand. Pleased by Parshurama's deference, his father agreed to make his one wish come true, to which he brought Renuka back to life. However, the axe remained stuck, a harsh reminder of an unforgettable misdeed. Desperate to make amends, Parshurama sought advice from many rishis and eventually ended up at the banks of the Lohit River. As he washed his hands in Lohit's clear waters, the axe detached, giving the river and the spot an exalted status.
Although devotees from the neighbouring states make their way on weekdays every month, the day Makar Sankranti witnesses a grand celebration. Pilgrims from all over the country visit the Kund during that day to enjoy the yearly Parshuram mela.
The lore has become every local resident's favourite tale to tell. They rush to narrate their versions, with little tweaks here and there adding a personal touch. However, to hear it from the priests over a hot serving of prasad cooked over a fire that's not been doused for a hundred years is a unique experience.
The Information
Nearest airport Dibrugarh Airport, located approx 200 km away
Nearest railway station Tinsukia Railway Station, located approx 160 km away
By road State-run buses ply daily from Tinsukia to Tezu
Best time to visit November-January is the best time to visit
Pro-tip Ensure to wear comfortable shoes and keep a bottle of water handy
