Behind Closed Doors

In India, 'love hotels' are a hush-hush affair, yet the originally Japanese concept has proliferated across towns and cities, offering couples a safe space
A street view of Paharganj, Delhi
A street view of Paharganj, DelhiPhoto For representation purposes only

If someone ever asked me for directions to a "paradoxical paradise," I would point them to India. Our so-called "land of love and freedom," is surprisingly stuck in a cultural limbo that struggles with the idea of the "freedom to love." Modern India's evolutionary tale also brings us to the lesser-known world of "love hotels" in metro cities and a few progressive towns.

For young and restless lovers who aren't afraid to explore the underbelly of romance, the clandestine corners of "love hotels" provide a much-needed safe space. Here, passion is free to meet privacy, and the rooms can be rented on an hourly basis without burning a hole in one's pocket.

Historically, "love hotels" date back to Japan in the 1700s. During Japan's Edo period between 1603 and 1867, there were secret tea houses where geishas performed songs and dances, and engaged in physical intimacy with guests. After World War II, a reconstruction phase was underway throughout Japan. Post-World War II, these tea houses evolved into "rabuhoteru," a response to limited private spaces and societal taboos around intimacy. Today, these establishments are used by Japanese couples to romance undisturbed.

The Indian Context

In India, the evolution of "love hotels" reflects a shifting cultural landscape. With changing societal attitudes towards relationships and privacy, couples who can afford them are willing to invest in upscale, private spaces for romantic rendezvous.

"With themed rooms and upscale amenities, modern 'love' hotels accommodate diverse needs beyond clandestine encounters. Couples seek venues that offer discretion and a comfortable environment to nurture their relationships," says Shrishti Dhawan, Chief Strategy Officer at Soul Vacation-South Goa. "The willingness to spend generously on these hideouts underlines a desire for intimate spaces free from societal scrutiny."

In India, love comes with its own set of rituals, where tradition often partners with modern aspirations. The "love hotel" concept is still waltzing its way into the mainstream, and it's a slow dance. While there are many cheap stays that admit young couples on an hourly basis, they still feel hesitant to openly advertise themselves as "love hotels." In 2018, the Supreme Court of India emphasised the right to privacy as a fundamental right, including unmarried couples' right to stay together in hotels. The court stated that hotels cannot deny accommodation to consenting adults solely on their marital status. However, some hotels still exercise their discretion in accommodating unmarried couples.

A veteran hotelier, who prefers not to be named, has these tips for couples: "Check if the hotel of your choice is comfortable with unmarried couples. Opt for more established hotels or chains; they're like the wise elders of the love hotel community—experienced, discreet, and less likely to raise eyebrows. Laws and regulations regarding unmarried couples booking hotel rooms in India vary depending on the state and local authorities, so it's advisable to check the specific policies of the hotel you plan to stay at."

Do Not Disturb

Outside India, adults-only hotels cater to a couple's fantasy—from Arabian Nights to futuristic sci-fi, the modern-day love lairs are designed to evoke passion.

While young Indians aren't afraid to try these experiences abroad, they lack confidence when they have to check in locally.

Nisha Shroff, a 30-year-old communication expert from New Delhi, has never stayed in a "love hotel" in India, but her experience of staying in an adult hotel in Bali after her marriage changed her perspective.

"In our quest for intimate and cosy travel experiences, my partner and I stumbled upon the Pink Coco in Gili Air, Indonesia. This charming hotel exudes love in every detail, creating a delightful and cutesy vibe. From offering a 10 per cent discount to couples wearing pink attire to scattered pink hearts throughout the property, the romantic ambience is truly heartwarming. Witnessing couples lounging on the private beach added to the overall intimate feel," she said.

But it's not just about the decor—heart-shaped jacuzzis, mirrored ceilings, and mood lighting. Don't be surprised if you find a discreet room service menu offering aphrodisiac-laden delicacies—because why not? Of course, we can't forget the golden rule of the love hotel adventure—discretion is the name of the game. It's like Fight Club but with more rose petals and fewer bruises.

The unspoken pact is that what happens in the "love hotel" stays in the "love hotel." No judgment, no prying eyes—just you, your partner, and the carefully curated ambience.

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