I had been struggling to keep my eyes open for what felt like ages. After an exhausting journey from Delhi to Mumbai, I still had a few hours before my flight to Sri Lanka. The anticipation of revisiting the island nation—the destination of my last vacation before the pandemic—left me feeling restless. A short flight and the accompanying jetlag didn’t help either.
But a glimpse of the plane from the glass windows near the boarding gate elevated my excitement several notches. With each step through the aerobridge to my window seat (yes, I'm a sucker for those), my heart began to fill with equal parts glee and suspense. This was my first time flying business class, and I couldn’t help but feel elated at the thought of finally not having to jostle for space—and space there certainly was. SriLankan Airlines left little to be desired, from the ever-smiling attendants to the generous wine servings. Flight food is often a sore spot, but here, the country’s flag carrier, truly stood out. The food was perfect, the legroom enviable, and after a heady drink, I woke up to the azure blue waters kissing the Sri Lankan coastline.
I stood on a beach where the land meets the Indian Ocean, nibbling on mango and basil sorbet ice cream, accompanied by honeyflower iced tea. At the edge of Yala National Park stood Wild Coast Tented Lodge, a luxury resort by Resplendent Ceylon, the brainchild of the Fernando family. The Fernandos are also the founders of the world-renowned Dilmah Ceylon Tea.
I was ushered to a cocoon pod that would be my home for the next two days. I was as surprised by the concept of the pod as you must be while reading this. These 28 cocoon tents, scattered across the property, blend seamlessly with the surroundings, taking on the shape and colour of the rocks and boulders. Wild Coast is a free movement zone for animals, with Yala's most famous predator, the leopard, occasionally strolling through the area. The only sounds that disturb your sleep are the loud croaks of frogs or the waves crashing on the sand. Boy, was I happy!
There is much to soak in at the resort. I was guided by a genial concierge to the main building—the vaulted bamboo Ten Tuskers bar and dining pavilion, nestled beside a free-flowing infinity pool. A Sri Lankan spread, with offerings like fish curry and hoppers, accompanied by the most delicious arrack cocktails, kept us buzzing. At Wild Coast, every experience is a carefully crafted delight that seamlessly blends ecological sustainability with luxury. From solar power to the use of hyperlocal ingredients, everything serves as a reminder that I am connected to the land. A dip in the pool, with water desalinated from the ocean and later recycled into water holes for animals, left me feeling refreshed enough to take on a safari in Yala National Park. The icing on the cake? We spotted the elusive leopard.
The next day, after a property showaround, we were treated to a special high tea by a rocky outcrop overlooking a lake, just a 10-minute walk from the lodge. The cliffs, hanging precariously over a roaring ocean, our naturalist guide, and a couple of friendly dogs made for great evening company. On our walk back to Wild Coast, the path was illuminated by hurricane lamps and a small bonfire. In front of us, near the beach, was a makeshift bar with a mixologist serving the best of Sri Lankan delights. It became our favourite part of the day—Sundowner Cocktail Hour.
With dusk came complete darkness. At Wild Coast, there are no night lights, keeping in mind the wildlife, and one has to call for an escort to roam inside the property after 6 pm. Back in my cocoon, after a quick bath in a standalone copper tub that called to mind a bygone era, I fell asleep to the sight of fireflies dancing outside.
From the rugged heart of the forest to manicured lawns atop a large mountain, our view changed dramatically in a matter of two hours, as we drove from Yala to Weligama. What remained constant was the blue of the ocean, but with a small addition—rowdy surfers riding the waves while my heart palpitated at the mere sight of them. The town, Sri Lanka's surfing paradise, boasts of Cape Weligama, another jewel in Resplendent Ceylon's collection, that charmed me by its simplicity, only to sweep me off my feet by its luxury offerings.
We walked around the property, which is laid out like a village, to our first destination—a mangrove-laden path led us to Lookout Blue point, where the silver overcast sky offers unfettered views of the ocean. A golf-cart saved us the walk to our premier ocean villa, Samuel Baker (every villa is named after an explorer)—its pristine privacy and gardens enticed me to walk a little before putting up my feet with a book, under the shaded terrace. Cape Weligama offers bespoke luxury our villa had a steam room and mossy cobblestones led to a semi private pool.
Food is the holy grail at Cape. Fish caught fresh from the bay makes its way to an elaborate menu with both Sri Lankan and international cuisine on the offer. My default spot at the resort was the Ocean Terrace, where a hearty breakfast helped me kickstart the day with a tour of the city. After a heady mix of history, surf and sand, I was back at the resort, where the cedar-soaked rooms of Sanctuary Spa treated my sore feet with homegrown spices.
It is easy to get lost in the meandering lanes of the property, but each wrong turn affords you a beautiful experience, the most delightful being the moon pool—a crescent-shaped infinity pool which gives the illusion of its water almost merging into the ocean. Nearby, the play area, with a chess set that almost matches my height, doubled up as our cocktail bar, where we engaged in a friendly (and exhausting) game of chess before retiring for lunch.
Much like its sister properties at Yala and Hatton, Cape Weligama is also a member of Relâis & Chateaux, with sustainability and community welfare at the heart of all operations. The staff at the resort contributes regularly to welfare projects, including cleanliness drives at the beach.
Sri Lankan hospitality is almost peerless—at the Tableau, over a decadent Chef's Table experience with Chef Vinnol, we had a crash course in Sri Lankan history and food (and a quick conversation in Hindi, much to our surprise). It was almost a sigh with which we culminated our last day on the wondrous island. We set out on a sailing expedition from the boat harbour in Mirissa even though our sail almost snapped in a show of might by the ocean winds, we watched, over mangoes and music, the glimmering ocean swallow the golden orb, drawing a curtain on an unparalleled Sri Lankan trail.
