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They say couples who visit Bhutan’s Chimi Lhakhang are blessed with children soon after. But what makes this temple truly interesting isn’t just its promise of fertility; it’s the man it honours: Lama Drukpa Kunley, the 15th-century Tibetan monk known as the ‘Divine Madman,’ whose unusual path to enlightenment continues to shape Bhutan’s spiritual landscape.
Set among the emerald rice and mustard fields of Punakha Valley, the temple rests on a gentle hill near the village of Sopsokha. From the base, it’s a short 20-minute walk through the countryside, past traditional homes, fluttering prayer flags, and fields where farmers still work by hand. From a distance, it looks like any other monastery. But as you step closer, you sense a hint of playfulness, perhaps even mischief. Built in 1499 by Ngawang Choegyel, the 14th Drukpa hierarch, Chimi Lhakhang, or the temple, is where faith mingles with folklore. The monks continue age-old rituals using sacred wooden phalluses to bless visitors, a tradition that reflects the saint’s belief that spirituality need not be solemn, that the divine and the human can meet with humour, warmth, and open-hearted faith.
Unorthodox—that’s perhaps the best way to describe Lama Drukpa Kunley. Born in Tibet in the 15th century, he was a revered yet eccentric monk, poet, and teacher who rejected rigid monastic norms. While most monks preached with restraint and earnestness, Kunley preferred to laugh, sing, and shock people into awareness.
According to legend, Kunley subdued a powerful demoness near Dochula Pass, the scenic mountain pass between Thimphu and Punakha, now known for its 108 memorial chortens. Wielding what he called his “magic thunderbolt of wisdom,” he defeated and tamed the spirit before blessing the land as sacred. He then built a small chorten (stupa) to mark the spot, which later became the site of Chimi Lhakhang. A large rock near the temple is said to imprison the demoness beneath it. It has become a lasting symbol of good triumphing over evil, though in Kunley’s characteristically irreverent way.
Known for his humour and unfiltered teachings, Drukpa Kunley’s methods were far from ordinary. He mocked hypocrisy, sang bawdy songs, drank wine, and spoke openly about human desires—all to make a larger point that enlightenment isn’t achieved by rejecting life, but by embracing it fully. His pleasure-filled life and playful irreverence even earned him the nickname “The Saint of 5,000 Women,” a moniker that reflected not indulgence but his belief that human passion and divine wisdom could coexist.
Over the centuries, his unconventional ways have earned him as many critics as admirers, yet his irreverent spirituality made him a folk hero whose influence still echoes through Bhutanese culture.
Today, Chimi Lhakhang is one of Bhutan’s most visited monasteries, drawing both pilgrims and travellers. For couples wishing to conceive, a visit here is almost a rite of passage. Inside the temple, monks perform fertility rituals using a 25-centimetre wooden phallus, said to be the original one brought from Tibet by Drukpa Kunley himself. The phallus, decorated with a silver handle, is believed to ward off evil spirits and malicious gossip, while its blessing is thought to grant fertility to those who seek it with faith.
For new parents, the temple also offers naming ceremonies, a ritual that's part of a centuries-old tradition. During the procession, the resident monk bestows an auspicious name upon the child, believed to carry the saint’s protection and good fortune.
Even for visitors without prayers to offer, Chimi Lhakhang provides something quietly profound. There’s a feeling of lightness without the compulsion to be sincere at Bhutan’s Temple of Fertility.
The influence of Drukpa Kunley’s teachings extends well beyond the temple walls. In the nearby village of Sopsokha, brightly painted phalluses adorn nearly every home and shop. Some are painted with ribbons, others with eyes, all meant to invoke Kunley’s spirit of fearlessness, fertility, and protection.
While such imagery may surprise outsiders, for the Bhutanese, it’s both sacred and practical. The phallic symbols are believed to ward off evil spirits and negative energy, a tradition that has endured for centuries. They are a colourful reminder of the Divine Madman’s belief that humour and holiness can coexist, that reverence need not be without laughter.
The short hike to Chimi Lhakhang is an experience in itself. The path winds through lush rice and mustard fields, past stone farmhouses and grazing cattle, with the distant mountains watching quietly over the valley. Along the way, you'll hear the soft flutter of prayer flags and the laughter of children playing by the fields. As you draw closer to the hill, the faint murmur of monks chanting fills the area. The temple soon comes into view, modest in size but rich in its appearance.
Inside, the space feels warm. Murals on the walls tell stories from Drukpa Kunley’s life, from his songs, his journeys to his teachings. The air smells faintly of butter lamps and incense, and the soft clink of prayer wheels fills the quiet. Despite its reputation as the “Fertility Temple,” Chimi Lhakhang feels less like a sacred site of requests and more like a celebration of life itself.
More than five centuries since its founding, Chimi Lhakhang continues to be a place of both devotion and exploration. Here, spirituality feels personal, as both faith and folklore mingle easily, just as they did in Drukpa Kunley’s time.
His legacy endures not as a saint to be worshipped, but as a reminder that enlightenment can live in joy, honesty, and the small, ordinary moments of being human. Whether you arrive seeking blessings, stories, or simply quietness, the temple leaves something behind with you, a lingering echo of the Divine Madman’s wisdom carried on the mountain wind.
Chimi Lhakhang is located in the Punakha District of central Bhutan, near Sopsokha village, about 10 kilometres from Punakha town and a 20-minute drive from the main road. From the parking area at Sopsokha, a scenic 20–30-minute walk takes you to the base of the hill. The trail is easy, dotted with prayer flags and traditional homes painted with colourful phallic symbols.
Best time to visit: The temple is open year-round, but the most pleasant times are spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November).
Travel tip: Wear comfortable walking shoes and dress modestly — shoulders and knees covered — as a mark of respect. Carry a bottle of water and a light jacket.
1. What is Chimi Lhakhang famous for?
Chimi Lhakhang, known as the Temple of Fertility, is famous for its fertility blessings and its connection to Bhutan’s revered monk, Drukpa Kunley — the “Divine Madman.”
2. Who was Drukpa Kunley?
Drukpa Kunley was a 15th-century Tibetan monk and poet known for his eccentric and irreverent teachings. He used humour, wine, and song to convey spiritual wisdom, earning him a legendary reputation across Bhutan.
3. Why is the temple called the ‘Temple of Fertility’?
The temple is believed to bless couples wishing to conceive. Monks perform special rituals using a sacred wooden phallus, symbolising fertility and protection from evil spirits.
4. Where is Chimi Lhakhang located?
Chimi Lhakhang is situated in Punakha Valley, near Sopsokha village, about 10 km from Punakha town in central Bhutan. It’s a short, scenic walk from the main road.
5. When is the best time to visit Chimi Lhakhang?
The best time to visit is during spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) when the weather is pleasant and the surrounding fields are lush and green.
