Nepal has always held a special allure for travellers seeking a blend of spiritual serenity and scenic beauty. For me, that allure came alive a few years back when I first visited the country with my four friends from Pondicherry University—Aadi, Navaneeth, Venki, and Sumanth.
Our journey began at Bhairahawa, where we primarily visited Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. From there, our journey unfolded into the heart of Nepal's diverse landscapes and profound spirituality. What made our visit even more meaningful was the backdrop of our cultural and intellectual pursuits—both the splendid landscapes of Nepal and the deep connections we formed with fellow travellers and scholars, including Ersan from Turkey and a group from the UK.
The country, for all its geographical beauty, has become an intrinsic part of my thoughts, particularly after the immense popularity of the Malayalam movie "Yodha," which stirred a wave of interest among all Keralites to explore this land of grandeur. Nepal presented itself as a canvas of spirituality and picturesque landscapes—quiet roads that seemed to pause time, rugged hill paths that challenged every muscle, and lush valleys filled with the essence of nature’s embrace. Riding two-wheelers through these rugged paths, we uncovered hidden gems—from the mighty Devi Falls to the hills of Kalikot, from the bustling streets of Kathmandu to the peaceful Tibetan settlements.
Our journey commenced in Lumbini, where time appeared to slow, enveloped by ancient monuments that narrate the story of the Buddha’s birthplace. The Maya Devi Temple, with its understated yet profound beauty, stood as a tranquil emblem of peace. Set amidst verdant gardens and reflective ponds, this sacred space invited moments of quiet contemplation, offering a sense of connection to the enduring spirit of spiritual journeys. Lumbini was more than just a destination—it was a living testament to the peace that the Buddha championed, leaving an indelible impression on our hearts.
Subsequently, we made our way to Pokhara, where the land transformed before our eyes. The beauty of Pokhara was nothing short of magical, as the landscape unfolded with the majestic Annapurna Range reflecting in the calm waters of Phewa Lake. It was here, amidst the serenity of nature, that we experienced the true essence of Nepal. The journey took us to Kaski and Sarangkot Hills, where we trekked up to witness the sun rise over the Himalayas. It was both physically demanding and emotionally uplifting—a reminder of how nature's raw beauty can humble us, yet also fill us with wonder. We stood there, gazing at the expanse of the mountains, feeling overwhelmed and small and yet a part of something much larger than ourselves.
Kathmandu, the heart of Nepal, was our next destination. The city welcomed us with its vibrant streets, filled with both chaos and tranquillity. Kathmandu, with its blend of the old and the new, was a city of contradictions, yet one that harmonised them perfectly. The Swayambhunath Stupa, also known as the Monkey Temple, offered a panoramic view of the city, surrounded by prayer flags fluttering in the wind. We wandered through the bustling lanes of Thamel, the centre of Kathmandu’s tourism scene, where the air was filled with the sound of music, conversation, and the hum of life. The exotic nights of Thamel, where we shared meals at the renowned Lords of Drinks, had their charm. It was here, in the chaos of the city, that we connected with people from across the world and social spectrum—scholars, tourists, workers, and locals—each with their own story to tell, contributing to the rich cultural tapestry of the place.
Bhaktapur, or Khwopa, as it is locally known, was another revelation in our Nepalese journey. Known for its well-preserved medieval architecture and rich culture, Bhaktapur seemed like a world untouched by time. The Nyatapola Pagoda, a five-story structure that reaches toward the heavens was an architectural marvel. The streets of Bhaktapur were like living museums, with every corner holding a story, every brick laid with intent, and every temple exuding divinity. Walking through the ancient squares, one could feel the pulse of the city’s historical significance, with its narrow alleys and bustling courtyards. We explored the traditional pottery and the art of woodwork, watched artists at work, and soaked in the beauty of the temples and stupas
The spiritual tapestry of Nepal was woven through each place we visited. One of the most profound experiences was our visit to the Pashupatinath Temple, one of the holiest temples for Hindus. The air was thick with incense, and the hum of chants filled the space around us, as sadhus, devotees, and tourists alike paid homage to the divine. It was a place where life and death intertwined, where the eternal cycle was acknowledged most intimately. The banks of the Bagmati River, where cremation rituals took place, offered a stark reminder of the impermanence of life. Yet, there was a certain calmness in the impermanence, a feeling of oneness with the universe, and it was impossible not to be moved by the serenity that this sacred site exuded.
One of the places that stayed with me long after I left Nepal was the Kaski Gupteshwar Mahadev Cave Temple. Located near Pokhara, this cave offered both a spiritual retreat and a deep connection with nature. The dimly lit interiors were filled with the scent of incense, and the peaceful sounds of water trickling from hidden springs reverberated through the cave’s stone walls. There was something almost otherworldly about the experience, as though one had entered a realm where the divine and the natural were intertwined in a dance of quiet reverence. As I stood there, surrounded by silence, I realized that this journey through Nepal was not just a physical one but a spiritual exploration, where every place we visited seemed to speak to our souls.
The Tibetan settlements in Nepal also offered a unique insight into its cultural fabric. As we visited these communities, we encountered people whose lives were shaped by exile and hardship, yet their resilience and commitment to preserving their culture and identity were inspiring. The serene Buddhist stupas, with their intricate carvings and prayer wheels, stood as symbols of hope, faith, and community, and the people we met reminded us of the strength that comes from holding on to one’s roots in the face of adversity.
What made this journey truly unforgettable was the sense of belonging we felt, even as outsiders. Nepal, in all its rugged beauty and spiritual depth, embraced us with open arms. The quiet roads that led us through lush forests, the tough hill roads that tested our limits, and the incredible diversity of landscapes and cultures we encountered along the way, were all part of a larger narrative that spoke to the interconnectedness of humanity and nature.
In every corner of Nepal, there was a reminder that the spiritual and the scenic were not separate but were intrinsically tied to one another. Whether it was the ancient monuments of Kathmandu, the tranquil hills of Pokhara, the solemnity of Pashupatinath, or the simple beauty of Bhaktapur, Nepal presented itself as a tapestry of experiences—each moment, each place, weaving together the fabric of a deeper understanding of life, faith, and the beauty that surrounds us.
Our journey through Nepal was more than just a trip; it left an indelible mark on our inner self, reminding us that beauty lies not only in the landscapes we traverse but also in the people we meet, the stories we hear, and the moments we share. It was a journey that was both spiritual and scenic, one that continues to inspire and guide me.
About the author: Amal Chandra is a noted Indian author, policy analyst, political commentator and columnist. Follow him on ‘X’ at @ens_socialis.