The air is thick with drumbeats and anticipation. On the shimmering backwaters of Kerala, sleek wooden snake boats—some stretching nearly 100 ft—slice through the water with the grace of ancient warriors. Hundreds of oars rise and fall in perfect rhythm, their movements guided by the chants of helmsmen whose voices carry across the crowd-lined banks. This is Vallam Kali, the legendary snake boat race, unfolding once more in all its grandeur as Kerala celebrates Onam 2025.
The origins of Vallam Kali can be traced back centuries, woven into the folklore and historical memory of Kerala. Popular accounts suggest that the races began as royal traditions, when local kings organised grand boat contests to display their naval strength. Over time, these events became entwined with temple festivals and rituals, most notably Onam, the harvest festival that honours the legendary King Mahabali.
The very name “Vallam Kali” translates from Malayalam as “boat game” or “boat race”—with vallam meaning boat and kali meaning game. The 100-feet-long majestic vessels at the heart of this spectacle are the Chundan Vallams, or snake boats, crewed by 80–150 oarsmen, helmsmen, and singers who keep rhythm with vanchipattu (boat songs). They can be instantly recognised by their long, tapering prows and sleek, serpentine form. Traditionally built from anjili (Artocarpus hirsutus) and other hardwoods, modern boats follow time-tested proportions. Stretching more than a hundred feet, these boats are feats of traditional craftsmanship and enduring symbols of Kerala’s maritime heritage, as much works of art as they are machines of speed and power.
Outlook Traveller spoke to Senior Professor Sivadasan P of University of Calicut, Kerala. “The geography of Kerala is marked by an abundance of lakes, and these landscapes have undergone periodic transformations over centuries due to geological shifts. These lakes became an inseparable part of human life along India’s western coast, especially in the southern tip of the subcontinent. Naturally, people adapted to this watery geography, giving rise not only to modes of transport and livelihood but also to festivals, rituals, and boat races deeply tied to water,” he explained.
Even the very origin of Kerala, as explained in medieval lore, is linked to water—the legend of Parashurama, who is said to have created the land by hurling his axe into the ocean. “This myth reflects the rhythm of the coastline itself, where the sea advanced and retreated over time, shaping the land,” remarked Professor Sivadasan. In the interior regions too, particularly in central Kerala, lakes reach inland to the very foothills of the Western Ghats. These water bodies are closely tied to temples, rituals, and daily practices. “A large number of shrines dedicated to different deities stand along these lakeshores, reinforcing the intimate connection between water and spirituality,” he said.
Before modern roads were built, Kerala’s people depended almost entirely on waterways for transport. Boats of various types—built with timber from Kerala’s forests—became essential to everyday life. Among these woods, thekku (teak) was especially prized for constructing strong, durable vessels.
“These boats served many purposes,” he continued. “Some were used in warfare, others for transporting goods, and still others for fishing. Certain vessels were even designed to venture into the Arabian Sea, protecting local waters and merchant ships. Smaller boats could strike enemies with speed and retreat quickly, creating real fear among larger trading fleets.”
Traditional fisherfolk, skilled in naval skirmishes, became formidable defenders of the coast. By the 15th century, they were instrumental in resisting Portuguese incursions. Many of them embraced Islam during this period, and their leader, Kunjali Marakkar, emerged as a legendary naval commander. He became a heroic figure in defending Kerala’s western coast from Portuguese colonisation in the 16th century.
The coastal and inland communities who lived by these waters were collectively known as the Arayan community– the original Dravidian fisherfolk of Kerala. They were divided into two groups: the Kadal Arayan, associated with the sea (kadal), and the Kayal Arayan, associated with the inland lakes (kayal). These communities lived lives heavily shaped by rituals, beliefs, and everyday practices centred on water.
“During harvest season and temple festivals,” he noted, “boat races became a highlight. These were particularly popular in central Kerala, where the concentration of lakes is greatest. The boats built for these races were unique and deeply sacred, with their preparation and launch accompanied by elaborate temple rituals. Even today, many races continue to be held in association with temples, often accompanied by grand feasts.”
Such feasts were once vital for local communities. In times of poverty, they provided nourishment and solidarity, ensuring that all could eat and celebrate together.
Boat races also entered Malayalam literature. Songs were composed for the races. Even in architecture, many traditional houses echoed the form of boats, underlining just how pivotal these vessels were to people’s lives.
Preparation for Vallam Kali isn’t casual. Teams begin weekly training sessions well in advance, overseen by veteran oarsmen. Often, the chosen crew members observe strict rituals—some even take vows of celibacy and disciplined diets during training—adding spiritual weight to their physical efforts.
Their bond is formed through months of synchronised paddling and chanting to vanchipattu.
On race day, the scene is a feast for the senses. Oarsmen wear traditional white dhotis and turbans, their boats adorned with ornate carvings, brass fixtures, and decorative umbrellas.
Most races take place during the monsoon and Onam season, from July to September, with some culminating on Kerala Piravi (November 1). During this time, Kerala’s backwaters are transformed into grand arenas for legendary contests.
The Nehru Trophy Boat Race in Alappuzha, often called the crown jewel of Vallam Kali, was first held in 1952 to honour then Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, who was so captivated by the spectacle that he donated a silver trophy. Today, it serves as the grand opener of the Champions Boat League (CBL), Kerala’s premier regatta circuit.
The Aranmula Uthrattathi Boat Race (Pathanamthitta) – More ritual than sport, this sacred regatta honours Lord Krishna at the Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple, culminating in the feast-like Vallasadya, where thousands are fed.
The Champakulam Moolam (Alappuzha) is considered the oldest race, tracing its roots to the installation of the idol at the Ambalappuzha Sree Krishna Temple.
The President’s Trophy Boat Race (Kollam) is held on November 1, Kerala Piravi (statehood day), across the placid expanse of Ashtamudi Lake.
Dozens more, from the Payippad Jalotsavam to the Kallada Jalotsavam, dot the backwaters each season, turning village banks into throbbing amphitheatres of celebration.
Launched in 2019 by Kerala Tourism, the Champions Boat League (CBL) reimagined Vallam Kali for a new era—complete with franchises, live broadcasts, and prize purses. Each team represents historic boat clubs, like the formidable Pallathuruthy Boat Club or the Kumarakom Town Boat Club, whose legacies are carved into decades of fierce competition. With NTBR as its opening act and the President’s Trophy as its finale, the CBL has brought global attention while still honoring the soul of the sport.
As dusk falls on a race day, the boats are hauled ashore, their wooden bodies dripping with the backwaters they’ve conquered. The crowd disperses slowly, still humming snatches of vanchipattu, still vibrating with the memory of the oars’ thunder. For the people of Kerala, Vallam Kali is not just an Onam spectacle. It is the pulse of tradition, alive in every stroke.
What is Vallam Kali and why is it important during Onam?
Vallam Kali, or snake boat race, is a traditional water regatta of Kerala held during Onam. It symbolizes unity, teamwork, and celebrates the state’s cultural heritage.
When will Vallam Kali take place during Onam 2025?
Vallam Kali races are held between July and September, with major events like the Nehru Trophy Boat Race scheduled around Onam 2025 festivities.
Where can visitors watch Vallam Kali in Kerala?
Popular venues include the Punnamada Lake in Alappuzha, Aranmula on the Pampa River, and other backwaters across central Kerala.
How many people row a snake boat in Vallam Kali?
A traditional Chundan Vallam can carry 80–150 oarsmen, along with helmsmen and singers who set the rowing rhythm with vanchipattu (boat songs).
How is Vallam Kali connected to Kerala’s history and culture?
Vallam Kali traces its roots to royal customs and temple rituals. Today, it remains a highlight of Onam, blending myth, community spirit, and athletic endurance.
