Standing at 11,930 ft, Sandakphu (or Sandakpur) in West Bengal is a tranquil hamlet near the Indo-Nepal border, offering breathtaking views of the eastern Himalayas, including the Kanchenjunga range, Makalu, Lhotse, and Everest.
However, Sandakphu has recently made headlines due to trekker and tourist fatalities caused by high-altitude sickness. So when my 25-year-old nephew showed me snapshots of the stunning mountain range he had seen from Sandakphu last December, I—now on the wrong side of 50—realised it was now or never. I found the perfect travel companion in my sister-in-law, Soumee Mazumdar, who eagerly said, “Sandakphu has been on my bucket list for quite some time. Let’s go tick it off!”
An online search warned us of a challenging journey, with nearly 85 km of rough, gravel roads from Gairibas to Sandakphu. Acclimatisation was crucial, so we planned a one-day halt before reaching Sandakphu and another rest day on the way back to the plains. This made our trip a five-day affair, scheduled from February 20 to 25. While the clearest views of the Himalayan range are typically from October to December, January and February can also offer spectacular glimpses.
Trekkers’ YouTube videos helped us prepare a checklist of essentials—thermal inners, layered clothing, bomber jackets, high-altitude and motion sickness medicines, and oxygen cans. From my past mountain travels, I also picked up a useful tip: carrying pieces of camphor can help counter breathlessness at high altitudes.
A one-hour flight from Kolkata to Bagdogra, followed by a three-hour cab ride, brought us to Maney Bhanjyang, fondly known as the Land of the Land Rovers. This small transit town serves as a gateway to Sandakphu. Along the way, we made an unplanned stop at Lepcha Jagat, a picturesque Lepcha village near Sukhiapokhri on the Ghum-Mirik Road. Towering oak trees stretched skyward, their roots weaving intricate patterns on the earth below, while the wind whistled through the dense canopy.
At Maney Bhanjyang, the Singalila Land Rovers Association announced its presence with a row of vintage 1960s Land Rovers lined up along the road. After a quick vehicle change, we hopped into a Bolero bound for Meghma, a small village within the Singalila National Park where we would spend the night.
At 9,514 ft, Meghma straddles the Indo-Nepal border and was blanketed in clouds when we arrived around 4 pm. At the Army check posts, we had to present our Aadhaar cards before continuing. Our stay for the night was at Poshtel, a cosy homestay offering electric blankets, hot water, and hearty meals—a welcome comfort in the chilly mountain air.
Temperatures hovered around 5° Celsius during the day, dropping below freezing at night. After a hearty meal of hot chapatis, dal, sabzi, and chicken curry—shared with the resident puppy eagerly nibbling at scraps—we tucked ourselves under the warmth of an electric blanket.
Soumee, feeling slightly dizzy, took high-altitude sickness medicine at Meghma. I felt fine and decided to skip it—a decision I would later regret. More on that soon.
The morning at Meghma looked promising, with clear skies and bright sunshine. After breakfast, we set off for Sandakphu, driving through the Singalila Reserve Forest. The winding mountain road took us through dense pine, bamboo, and rhododendron trees. The leaves were brown and wispy, awaiting the arrival of spring, though we did spot a few budding rhododendrons. While the flora captivated us, we were disappointed not to catch a glimpse of the elusive red panda, a resident of this forest.
As we ascended towards the highest point in the state, temperatures dropped drastically, and the roads disappeared. Our vehicle bounced over jagged stones and rocks, making us grateful for the Bolero rather than a bare-boned Land Rover. The last stop before Sandakphu was Kalapokhri Lake, a small waterhole surrounded by barren, brown mountains. The wind howled, and a couple of feathery white ducks called out from the lake.
We reached Sandakphu by noon, where layers of snow covered the pine trees. Temperatures hovered in the low single digits. The main hotel, Sunrise Hotel, sits on the Nepal border and offers only basic amenities. Electric blankets—essential in the freezing cold—were available for INR 200 per head. While the rooms had attached bathrooms, the toilets had no running water, as it froze in the cisterns. However, thanks to heated pipes, running water was available from the taps. The hotel provided a continuous supply of warm drinking water, which could also be used for quick washes.
After a simple hot lunch, we set out for a walk but were soon halted by a hailstorm. Small globules of ice pelted us relentlessly as howling winds froze everything in sight.
With phone batteries draining rapidly, no network, and patchy WiFi, there wasn’t much to do in the evenings. Dinner was a steaming bowl of thukpa, which turned cold within minutes. The temperature inside the hotel showed 1° Celsius.
We set our alarms for 4 am, hoping for clear skies. “Pray that it rains hard at night,” advised a hotel staffer.
I woke up at 3 am, sweating under the electric blanket. Two hours later, we were up and ready. Soon, excited shouts echoed through the hotel: “Dikhai de rahe hain! ("They are visible!")
We rushed to the hotel’s bare terrace. An orange streak in the east heralded the rising sun, casting its rays on the snow-capped peaks, transforming them into liquid gold.
As the clouds parted, the entire Kanchenjunga range emerged in all its glory. Known locally as the Sleeping Buddha, the range resembles a giant reclining figure. Peaks such as Kumbhakarna (the nose), Kumbhakarna East (the chin), Koktang, Rathong, Kabru South and North (various body parts), the majestic Kanchenjunga (the belly), and Goecha and Pandim (the feet) formed this breathtaking tableau. Further northwest, hidden among travelling clouds, were Makalu, Lhotse, and Everest.
With frozen fingers fumbling inside thick gloves, we clicked relentlessly, though the lens of our eyes captured it best. The view remained clear until about 10 am, after which thick clouds engulfed the range. In the afternoon, we had planned to trek to Ahal Dara, Nepal, a sunset point. However, the darkening sky and my own breathlessness made us abandon the plan. A whiff of camphor and a Diamox tablet saw me through.
The next morning, the sky cleared up slightly, offering a partial view of the range. By 10 am, the peaks were once again hidden behind clouds. With our mission accomplished, we began our descent, grateful to have witnessed the Sleeping Buddha.
On our way back, we stayed at Tabakoshi, a serene hamlet near the Gopaldhara Tea Estate.
A trip completed, a bucket list checked, and a sight stored in memory forever.
Fly from Kolkata to Bagdogra, the nearest airport.
Take an overnight train (Darjeeling Mail, Padatik Express, Kanchan Kanya Express) to New Jalpaiguri.
From Bagdogra/New Jalpaiguri, hire a 4x4 vehicle to cover the approximately 100 km to Sandakphu via Maney Bhanjyang and Meghma (night halt).
Homestays at Meghma (advance booking recommended during peak season).
Sunrise Hotel at Sandakphu or homestays slightly lower down.
Government ID (Aadhaar accepted)
Waterproof trekking shoes
Layered warm clothing
High-altitude and motion sickness medicines
Oxygen cans, camphor, and a trekking stick
October-December, April-May
Required for Singalila National Park, issued before entering.
