In the world’s happiest country, a "steaming" adventure awaits me, quite literally. Finland, the Nordic paradise of natural splendour, has charmed me on every visit. Working for a global corporation headquartered in Finland has meant several trips to Helsinki.
By the time I land here for the third time—when this adventure unfolds—I am already smitten by the elegance and efficiency manifested in the Finnish way of being. However, I am still a stranger to a quintessentially Finnish experience—the sauna. The sauna has dominated many of our conversations in the team, but I have not been able to dare it as yet.
Up until this time.
During a coffee break on the sidelines of the annual global marketing meet, a trip to the sauna is strongly recommended. A must-try for anyone aspiring for an induction into Finnish culture, someone says. Joined by three remarkable ladies who are my dear friends and colleagues from South Africa, Brazil and Australia, I am all set for the feat.
First, let’s get the sound of the word right. The word "sauna" is often mispronounced as "soo"-"na" with the exaggerated "o." We should say "sau" like "how" with an "s" and "nah".
Stepping into a popular sauna and recreation centre located next to the Helsinki harbour, I am filled with a sense of wonder and excitement. Of course, there is a bit of trepidation as well. As I enter the premises, it feels like stepping into a magical dome. At the reception, we pay for the tickets and are handed a wristband which doubles up as locker keys. This protocol is familiar as it is the case in many beauty and wellness facilities around the world.
There is a counter to purchase drinks before getting into a sauna. "Do people drink in the sauna," I ask. "Sometimes they do," informs my friend. “But usually while cooling off." I have been forewarned that it is important to stay hydrated. I take a few quick gulps from the bottle of water I am carrying in my handbag and rent a couple of towels that I do not know yet are destined to play a key role in this historic event of my life.
Wonder soon gives way to bewilderment when I reach what looks like a place to shower. What I have gathered from various conversations strikes me as reality now.
Here's the thing: to savour the sauna in its truest traditional form, one needs to shed inhibitions. The traditional practice requires one to disrobe before entering the sauna. A cool shower precedes the entry into the steaming chamber. Interestingly, the sauna place we are in provides access to a swimming area with pools and lakes. In fact, the traditional Finnish way is to take a dip in natural lakes or seas before and after the sauna. I opt for the shower. “What else, I can’t swim,”, I declare, a tad embarrassed. My friends choose the shower as well (thank you, ladies).
The traditional practice is to savour the experience without the trappings of any clothing. I realise that this has a therapeutic connection. The purpose of visiting the sauna is to cleanse the body and make way for healing and rejuvenation. The Finns vouch for multiple health benefits of the sauna.
I take a few minutes to process the scene. To my comfort, some people are in swimwear as well at the shower area. "This is not so daunting," I reflect, doubling my faith in the towels. Thankfully I am armed with two towels—one for the shower and the other for the sauna.
We stay adequately and demurely clad (yes, in the glory of the towels). "This is no different from a white cocktail dress," I tell my colleagues. We share a laugh.
Initially, a part of me is petrified. Will I be allowed in this unconventional avatar? Yes, I am and it is now time to move on to the larger purpose of liberation and healing. It is about gravitating to a zone of no judgements; liberation from toxicity of all kinds and preparing for complete healing and rejuvenation. Casting away mental and physical inhibitions is critical to the healing process. Nothing erotic here, just therapeutic.
I gather my composure and stash my belongings and reservations into the locker. I procrastinate a bit on the gold bracelet that I am wearing, but my colleague warns me not to wear any metals inside. "There goes the princess from India," she jests. I have taken off my contact lenses as they would not do well in the heat of the sauna. Glasses would not work either. I find it hard to see but count on my dear colleagues for necessary guidance.
As we enter what looks like a steaming cave, I feel a mix of vulnerability and liberation. And in doing so, I discover a surprising sense of freedom and connection. That's what spirituality is all about, isn't it? I take a seat next to my friends on the benches laid out in steps. I notice the seat mats. This might be the right time to mention that there are both electric- as well as wood-heated saunas in Finland. The sauna is so ingrained in the Finnish way of life that it is common for some houses and apartments to have their own sauna.
Inside, the silence is profound, broken only by the gentle rustle of our towels and the breathing of the sauna inmates. I am impressed by the respect for privacy and etiquette that is demonstrated.
Gradually, the experience starts sinking in. Steam curls around us like whispers and reaches a crescendo. As the heat starts seeping in, melting away the awkwardness, a realisation sets in. This is a sanctuary where everyone, covered or bare, sheds not just sweat but pretence and toxicity. Draped yet immersed, the modest Indian woman in me finds herself fully in harmony with the experience, on a cultural experiment while staying true to herself.
A lady next to me moves gracefully through slow yoga postures, her limbs blending with the warm shadows. I find myself awash in silent pride, as India is a pioneer in yoga.
The heat envelopes me, filling each breath and each pore until my entire being feels saturated with a molten serenity. I settle into a meditative cadence. As the heat turns overpowering, I step out into the cool embrace of the adjoining lawn for a break.
As I stroll on the soft grass, the air around me feels gentle and relaxing. For a moment I shudder that I am in the open in my present not-so-modest attire. I get rid of the thought quickly. I do not need to care. I gaze at the summer sky, reflecting on this dance of heat and calm. The heat beckones once more and I am ready to start over.
In each wave of warmth and coolness, I feel an awakening. As the evening wanes I find myself profoundly at peace, wrapped in the ritual that is truly Finnish yet so universal in significance. I am overcome by the best surprise of the day—I start feeling at home.
