It's May, and the Spanish sun is stretching long shadows across Buñol's pristine cobblestones, as if they were a museum floor. The town is distinctively perfumed with the sweet fragrance of tilos flowers and the Hinduon blooms, on the German linden trees. Golden Nispero fruits hang heavy on branches, marking the perfect timing for what's to come. It's hard to believe that in a few weeks, the stones I walk on now will soon be baptised in rivers of scarlet, as 20,000 people engage in the world's biggest food fight. And that's exactly what Priyanka Chopra reports in the opening scene of her new movie, "Heads of State," where you can see the La Tomatina in full swing in the backdrop.
But Buñol, as we all have seen in ZNMD, is so much more than La Tomatina, which is far more the Instagram chaos—it's a symphonic work of tradition and rebellion, that most find not. "This is where the music becomes a showdown," says International Tourist Officer of Valencia Provincial Council, Desam García, as we approach Auditorio Muncipal. This isn't just Roman architecture, it's an open-air amphitheatre carved into stone, and backdrop cliffs lined with mountain goats who seem convinced they're part of the audience.
"We literally have a jam-off here in the amphitheatre," García explains with theatrical reverence, "It's like a showdown between John Williams and Hans Zimmer. This is the Certamen de Bandas de Música, the prestigious riff-off that precedes the famous tomato-throwing festival, La Tomatina." Two local musical powerhouses face off—Unión Musical Instructiva de Buñol and Sociedad Musical Artística de Buñol. But locals know them as the La Primitiva and Los Feos (The Ugly Ones). The latter's moniker has little to do with appearance and more with a long-standing rivalry that spans generations. The duel is known as Mano a Mano, a one-night-only sound clash that draws thousands each August.
"Many of these musicians work around the world—in Berlin, Vienna, Los Angeles, and with the London Symphony," García tells me, continuing, "They come back just for three days to rehearse and create this concert for everyone." These elite musicians return home to settle old scores through a symphonic war. "It's designed to work with natural acoustics. For everyone. One with nature," asserts García. The contest occurs one week before La Tomatina, the Saturday before the last Wednesday of August. This day transforms Buñol into a battleground of brass and bravado. In the same week, Buñol also hosts the children's Tomatina, a smaller but equally spirited version of the main event, which gives young ones their first taste of the festival.
Eight minutes from the Auditorio Muncipal, past Buñol's ladrillo caravista (red brick) laden backstreets, I arrive at Ayuntamiento de Buñol, near Mercadona. I meet Mario, Hector, and Timo here, instructing at Spain's only masterclass for restoration of string instrument. It is a nine-month program from February to November, training 15 artisans in the delicate art of musical resurrection. "The luthiers build instruments, but this workshop focuses largely on maintaining and repairing them," Mario explains, running his fingers across a violin's curves. These instruments belong to the very musicians who battle in the amphitheatre.
"If there's a crack in the wood, it can be repaired in a day. If it requires adjusting the bridge, it takes longer," he tells me. The workshop focuses exclusively on the violin family—violin, viola, cello, and double bass—instruments that share the same basic shape but differ dramatically in size and complexity. The wood selection reveals a deep understanding of acoustic science.
"For transmitting sounds, we need different kinds of material," Timo elaborates. Spruce (abeto) serves specific acoustic functions, while maple provides structural strength and tonal qualities. "The wood is expensive sometimes," he notes, indicating pine and premium materials. But at 60 euros per hour plus materials, repairing a cheap violin makes no financial sense, "you can have a new one for less," Hector points out. "These violins are very cheap, maybe 50 or 60 euros," Mario says, pointing at student instruments. "But one really good violin, maybe thousands—1,500 or 2,000 euros." Each violin carries four steel-core strings; each cello bears the weight of musical history. Violin strings cost significantly more than guitar strings, demonstrating the precision required for proper intonation. Professional repair costs 60 euros per hour, plus materials.
Because Buñol is synonymous with "La Tomatina," my next stop was Museo de la Tomatina, which is free to visit, and where I learnt about the festival's origins. In 1945, during the Gigantes y Cabezudos parade (a traditional procession) featuring gigantic costumed figures representing local folklore, two cuadrillas (groups of young people) spending the summer in Buñol grabbed tomatoes from a fruit shop and began pelting them at each other. And just like that, what began as a spontaneous mischief became an annual tradition. This eventually began to attract visitors from nearby towns. "The visits increase during the summer, and people separate themselves into different cuadrillas," García shares, describing how seasonal visitors and locals naturally form competing factions.
However, Franco's dictatorship had other plans in 1957. Military authorities, suspecting political undertones, banned the festival. "It was forbidden," García recounts, continuing, "So the people of Buñol decided to protest with a mock funeral of the Tomatina." The pictures of the genuinely grieving faces, tears, and a coffin containing tomatoes at the La Tomatina Museum capture it wonderfully and are hilarious, as even in their staged grief, hints of mischief peek through. One year later, the festival was unbanned; since then, it has been operating with remarkable precision. These tomatoes aren't your typical grocery store variety; they're grown specifically for the festival, overripe and unsuitable for consumption.
Later, when I visited Teatro Montecarlo and Auditorio Municipal de San Luis, their rust-red velvet seats instantly reminded me of the tomato-soaked streets of La Tomatina, which I'd earlier spotted in the museum. Except inside these grand venues, the same colours transform into a disciplined harmony of "La Artística" and "La Armónica."
As we ascend the Buñol castle, García points toward the town centre from the vantage point, noting, "You can trace the entire Tomatina route from here, and see where they throw the tomatoes. This is the first checkpoint." This elevated point reveals the narrow medieval streets that create natural bottlenecks, which allow intimate contact between participants, while ensuring maximum tomato coverage. Built in the 11th century during Muslim occupation, then expanded by Christians in the 16th and 17th centuries, the castle represents centuries of strategic thinking far beyond simple fortification.
I was specifically awed by its 60-meter-deep water well and a separate five-meter grain storage pit. "The bigger well is for water, and that one is for grains," García explains, pointing to the dual storage system that ensured survival during sieges. The design reveals medieval engineers' understanding that castles needed more than walls; they required sustainable storage and ecosystems, especially during wars," García explains while also describing the hydraulic systems that once connected the fortress to different water sources through underground channels.
From pausing at a local restaurant for sampling empanadillas, delicate pastries with flaky crusts and intriguingly seasoned fillings, to grabbing lunch at Posada Venta Pilar, a 400-year-old restaurant steeped in history, Buñol took me by surprise with its culinary offerings. "The food here is the fusion between the Castellano from Castilla and the Mediterranean," García told me. And I remember Posada Venta Pilar from ZNMD, where the quartet stayed, if you noticed. Housed in a 17th-century building, Posada Venta Pilar originally served as a resting place for horses, long before the current family took over 150 years ago. It is one of Spain's oldest operating hotels.
I met the fourth-generation owners, Enrique Galindo and Maria Jose Vidal, over lunch, and they introduced me to some of their very special recipes. Their signature, olleta, available only on Thursdays, is a complex stew combining various beans with different pig body parts, similar to fabada but distinctly Buñolean. But their croquetas and atún encebollado de Buñol are equally appetising. Distinguishing between the regional variations, Enrique tells me, "Here in Valencia, we have two kinds of pisto. The Castilian influence brings one style, but titaina is much more tomato-based." The dish arrived as a beautiful medley of tomatoes, egg, garlic, and pine nuts.
"Both," García answers when I ask whether the revellers are tourists or locals. "Buñol has managed to preserve authenticity while embracing global curiosity," she says. And as I'm back on those scrubbed-clean streets, it strikes me that La Tomatina isn't really about tomatoes, it's more about a brief permission to get messy. Gone just as quickly as it arrives. Within two hours, the streets are spotless again, thanks to a coordinated clean-up effort involving huge water hoses and 100 dedicated staff from the local council, plus volunteers who spring into action the moment the last tomato lands.
I love Buñol, because even disorder has a place and a plan here.
There are many layover flights to Valencia, Spain, departing from Mumbai, New Delhi, Chennai, and other major Indian cities. Carriers on this route include Lufthansa, Swiss Airways, Air France, and KLM. Buñol is only a 40-minute drive from Valencia city centre and can be easily reached by bus or train. The best time to visit Buñol is from late June to late August. Indian travellers must obtain a Schengen visa to visit Spain.
Q1. What is Buñol famous for besides La Tomatina?
Buñol is known for its rich musical heritage, the Mano a Mano band competition, historic Buñol Castle, and authentic Spanish cuisine.
Q2. When is the best time to visit Buñol?
Late June to late August is ideal for experiencing music festivals and La Tomatina. Spring offers pleasant weather for cultural exploration.
Q3. How can I reach Buñol from Valencia?
Buñol is just a 40-minute drive from Valencia city and is accessible by train or bus.
Q4. What are the top things to do in Buñol?
Visit Buñol Castle, attend the Mano a Mano music festival, explore the La Tomatina Museum, and enjoy local delicacies like olleta and croquetas.
Q5. Do I need tickets for La Tomatina in Buñol?
Yes, La Tomatina is a ticketed event, and you should book in advance as the number of participants is limited.
