Bhutan has captivated me since childhood. Known as the "happiest country in the world," it lies just a few kilometres from my hometown, Cooch Behar in West Bengal. One of my earliest fascinations with Bhutan was a lenticular postage stamp I owned—almost 3D in effect. I was equally enchanted by the striking national flag: a white dragon at its centre, set against yellow-orange and orange-red diagonal halves.
As a child, I visited Bhutan several times but never ventured beyond Phuntsholing, a lively border town where Indians can travel without an entry permit. Then, in 2013, I finally got the chance to explore beyond it. The short yet memorable itinerary included visits to Thimphu, the capital city, Paro, and a day trek to the breathtaking Taktshang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest). While the experience was incredible, I longed to explore Bhutan’s lesser-known corners beyond its popular tourist spots.
Recently, my dream came true during a bike trip. This time, I revisited Thimphu and Paro but made it a point to go further—to Dochula Pass, Punakha Dzong and, most significantly, the serene Phobjikha Valley. Located 134 kilometres from Thimphu and bordering the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park, Phobjikha is a stunning, U-shaped glacial valley nestled against the backdrop of Bhutan’s Black Mountains.
This enchanting region is often referred to as Gangtey, named after the Gangteng Monastery perched on a ridge overlooking the valley. Known for its picturesque beauty, Gangtey is one of Bhutan’s most scenic destinations. Treks through the valley, such as the three-day Phubja Valley Trek, offer an immersive experience of Bhutan’s rich ecology and spiritual heritage, a testament to the country's commitment to sustainable tourism.
Phobjikha Valley, with its tranquil charm, timeless architecture and the kindness of its people, left me spellbound—a journey I’ll cherish forever. One of the highlights was experiencing the traditional Bhutanese architecture in the small villages scattered across the countryside. The houses, with their intricately painted walls, ornate wooden windows and vibrant façades, stand as timeless works of art, blending seamlessly with the natural landscape. The people I met were equally remarkable, their warmth and hospitality unparalleled. Strangers offered tea and stories, making me feel like a welcome guest with their ever smiling faces.
Children in the villages were especially heartwarming, their innocent smiles and unfiltered curiosity a reminder of life’s simpler joys. They waved eagerly as we passed by on our bikes. It was a humbling and uplifting experience that underscored the deep connection Bhutanese people have with their land and community.
Bhutan is one of the few capital cities in the world without traffic lights. Instead, traffic is managed by police officers who use hand signals and their friendly demeanour to keep things running smoothly.
Starting their monastic education at a young age, the boys of the Gangtey Monastery dedicate themselves to learning Buddhist teachings, meditation and rituals. Their daily routine is filled with prayer, study and discipline. These young monks play an important role in preserving Bhutan's spiritual traditions and culture, embodying the quiet strength and discipline that are central to Bhutanese life.
At the Dochula Pass, prayer flags fluttered gently in the breeze. The distant mountains vanished, leaving a calm stillness all around. The mist added a magical touch, making the place feel peaceful and almost otherworldly.
Thukpa is a hearty noodle soup and a staple of Bhutanese cuisine. Restaurants in the country can serve Chinese, Nepalese, Tibetan and Indian foods, which are very popular. In recent years, Korean restaurants have opened due to the increasing popularity of K-pop in the country.
The simplicity of life and the unspoiled beauty of its landscapes make Bhutan not just a place to visit but a place to feel. For me, Bhutan will always be a reminder of the joy that comes from embracing life’s essence—happiness rooted in contentment, community and an abiding respect for the world around us.
