From The Latest Issue: Magical Matera, Italy’s Ancient City Carved By Time

Daniel Craig sprinted across the Sassi, motorbikes weaving past him.

I smiled at the memory of the opening chase of "No Time to Die," as I stood in Matera, Italy, against the backdrop of sun-warmed limestone houses rising from the cliffs. Below me, scooters threaded through the streets, while beyond, the Gravina Canyon stretched into silence. In an instant, the city's magic unveiled itself, sublimely converging history, cinematic drama, and quiet luxury.

Matera may dazzle on screen, but its story runs far deeper. The Sassi districts—Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso—stretch like a labyrinth of winding stairways, secret courtyards, and ochre-hued cave dwellings inhabited since the Palaeolithic era. Once labelled the "shame of Italy" for its poverty and neglect, this ancient region was rediscovered by artists, musicians, and filmmakers who revealed its enduring charm and cultural significance. Their vision transformed public perception, recasting Matera as a city of resilience, artistry, and lived history.

In 1993, UNESCO recognised this revival, inscribing the Sassi as a World Heritage Site. Today, the local traditions and quiet strength of its people feel as enduring as its stone foundations. Walking through its alleys, one senses a place that is simultaneously timeless and continually reinventing itself.

That balance of past and present is clearest at the city's highest point, where the 13th-century Matera Cathedral glows in the late-afternoon light. From its steps, the Sassi stretches like a sea of stone, the Gravina canyon opening wide beyond. And in that moment, Matera feels eternal—a city where time is not just preserved but lived.

Sleeping in Stone

As dusk fell, we left the winding streets of the Sassi for our handpicked cave hotel, the Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa. Evenings here unfolded slowly, where contemporary elegance met the raw drama of ancient limestone. The rooms, cloaked in soft white, carried a quiet elegance—their restrained design let the cave walls command attention.

By day, sunlight streamed into a courtyard carved centuries ago; by night, lanterns flickered along the cobbled streets as I sipped a nightcap in a tucked-away alcove, the sky above deepening to a cobalt blue.

Here, luxury whispered in subtleties: ivory palettes, pools of warm light, and pared-back furnishings; each detail in harmony with the textures of the Sassi.

Beneath it all, the spa pulsed like the hotel's hidden heart. Set under vaulted arches, it unfolded as a sanctuary of stillness, accessible only by appointment for the rare pleasure of privacy. Slipping into the thermal pool, I let the alternating jets of hot and cold water massage my tired muscles. This ritual is both bracing and restorative, like Matera revealing one of its quieter luxuries.

Yet the city never lets you drift too far into reverie. On a rain-slick morning, suitcases in tow, we struggled up a steep slope until an older man appeared, wordlessly taking the heaviest bag. Almost casually, he explained that he had been returning every summer for seven years. That simple gesture reminded me of Matera's truest luxury: resilience and generosity, layered into every stone.

Beyond the Caves, A Modern Heart

In the Centro Storico (old town), it's like returning to the present from another time; broad piazzas framed by Baroque façades, sunlit cafés spilling onto the streets, and boutiques tucked between old churches. By evening, the streets hum with life: the passeggiata draws both locals and visitors, small shops display handmade jewellery and scents, while luxury labels slip seamlessly into the streetscape. Matera is, at its essence, a lived-in Italian town—elegant without effort, vibrant yet unhurried, with an innate charm that feels completely natural.

As the streets glow in the evening light, the city's authentic flavour emerges, not just in its stones and piazzas, but on its plates.

A Taste of Matera

In Italy, food is memory, and in Matera, it was unforgettable. We savoured pane di Matera, its thick crust perfect for sharing, and peperoni cruschi, sweet red peppers fried to crisp perfection. Down a quiet alley, I twirled forkfuls of tagliatelle al ragù at Pane & Pomodoro, while at Il Rusticone, a diavola pizza slid from the wood-fired oven, its edges blistered and smoky. At Radino Wine Bar, tucked into a cave in Sasso Caveoso, centuries-old stone walls framed elegant interiors where regional Lucanian wines accompanied locally inspired dishes, giving way to understated sophistication. Gelato at Dell'Angelo melted faster than we could eat it, a sweet punctuation to a day of pure indulgence.

But the moment that stayed with me was simpler: an Aperol spritz at Crialoss, perched on a terrace as the sun slipped behind the canyon. One by one, lights flickered across the Sassi until the city shimmered, every stone glowing as though it were alive.

Beyond the City Walls

After days of indulgence, we craved balance, and hiking through the Parco della Murgia Materana, the rugged canyon just across the Gravina River, delivered precisely that. The trail opened to sweeping views where Matera seemed to rise out of the cliffs like a mirage. Along the way, caves brushed with ancient frescoes hinting at lives lived millennia ago, a reminder that the city's story runs deeper than its stones. From across the canyon, the city felt even more magnetic: not frozen in time but bridging eras with quiet resilience.

Matera's Enduring Spell

For me, Matera is a slow-burn romance—one that builds gradually and leaves a lasting imprint. On my final evening, I sat with a spritz as the sun slipped beyond the canyon. One by one, the Sassi lit up, every limestone wall aglow. And in that moment, I understood: this city hasn't simply preserved its past—it has transformed it, turning survival into beauty, and history into something you can still feel beneath your skin.

The Information

Matera, Italy: Often considered Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited city, Matera enchants with ancient cave dwellings that have evidence of human habitation since the Palaeolithic era, carved into the rocky landscape.

Getting There: Fly into Bari in Puglia, then catch a cab or drive roughly 1.5 hours to Matera. For a more scenic route, regional trains and buses from Bari offer countryside views.

Stay: For a truly authentic experience, book a cave hotel such as the Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa, where contemporary interiors harmonise with centuries-old stone architecture.

Tips: Wear comfortable shoes for exploring the cobbled streets, and don't forget sunscreen. Carry a light jacket for cooler mornings and evenings, pause often, and let the city's quiet rhythm and expansive views unfold around you.

Best Time to Visit: April to October is perfect with long, sunny days for endless strolling and sightseeing.

Author bio

Sanjna Thakeria is a travel writer with a love for uncovering hidden gems. She delights in exploring tucked-away corners, local cultures, and untold stories, and aspires to bring readers along on journeys that reveal the quiet magic of experiencing new destinations.

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