The World's First Book Town | Imagine living in a town where literature and reading are not only encouraged but are an indelible part of the fabric of daily life. Welcome to Hay-on-Wye, a Welsh town that is fondly referred to as “the Town of Books” because of its famed secondhand and antiquarian bookshops, as well as the popular Hay Festival of Literature and Arts, which is held there annually.
But it's not just the books that capture tourist interest. The countryside of Hay-on-Wye is one of the most stunning places to visit in the United Kingdom (UK). The town stands on the southern side of the River Wye, while across the river to the north are the green hills of Radnorshire. In the south and west lies the glorious range of the Black Mountains, and in the east is the Golden Valley, part of the cultivated farmlands of Herefordshire in England.
For a thousand years, this remarkable structure has been part of the landscape. Part Norman, part Jacobean and part Victorian, Hay Castle has been a home to invaders, a patriots’ citadel, a country manor and a world-famous bookshop. Severe fires in 1939 and 1977 gutted the castle and by the early 21st century, much of the building was derelict and unstable. The remains of the castle include a four-storey keep and a beautiful arched gateway. Remnants of the 18th-century formal gardens and 19th-century terraced gardens can still be seen. Since 2011, it has been owned by Hay Castle Trust who have restored the property to form a centre for arts, literature and learning.
Richard Booth’s idea that a town of books could become an international attraction transformed the small market community of Hay-on-Wye into the world’s first booktown. He opened his landmark bookshop on Lion Street in 1962. Today, it extends over three floors and is packed with secondhand volumes and new tomes spanning literary fiction, politics, fashion, photography, art and design, and more. The bookshop also has a well-stocked children's section.
Hay-on-Wye’s cinema was transformed into a bookshop in 1965, making it one of the longest-established bookshops in town. Stocking more than 2,00,000 secondhand and bargain books, it is situated in an open-air space next to a pyramid sculpture.
Addyman Books is known for its fair prices, clean and well-chosen stock, and a specialisation in English literature and modern first editions. The collection spans nine rooms and three corridors, plus an outside back passage. Like many businesses in the 21st century, it sells its stock online in parallel to its mortar-and-brick structure.
A new addition to the town (it opened in 2023), Gay on Wye is a pioneering LGBTQIA+ bookstore that is dedicated to celebrating the richness and diversity of queer literature. Their staff provide personalised recommendations and connect readers with stories that reflect their identities. The bookshop also hosts regular author readings, book clubs, workshops and discussion panels that offer opportunities for engagement, education and empowerment.
One of the world’s biggest and best literary festivals happens every year in late spring. Devised in 1988, it attracts 1,00,000-plus visitors over 11 days to engage with the world’s great writers, poets, philosophers, historians, scientists, comedians and musicians. It takes place in a large tented village on the outskirts of Hay-on-Wye, and features pop-up cafés, shops and restaurants. Between sessions, visitors can relax in deckchairs on the village green, browse the stalls and visit a festival bookshop that stocks 55,000 titles by visiting speakers. Evenings are devoted to music, comedy and film.
The 2025 edition will take place from May 22 to June 1, and include appearances from the chef Yotam Ottolenghi, actor Michael Sheen, children's author Julia Donaldson, comedian Katherine Ryan, writer Robert Harris, and musician Paloma Faith, among others.
The countryside surrounding Hay-on-Wye is the perfect place for a hike or stroll. The nearby Black Mountains have a range of trails for the adventurous visitor, while the 3.3-km Hay-on-Wye River and Rail Trail Circular Walk is suitable for all skill levels. Trekkers should also consider wandering in the nearby Brecon Beacons National Park.
The Globe at Hay is an independent arts centre that organises a range of events throughout the year, including live music, film screenings, talks and debates, workshops, and more. Intrepid visitors can also stay at one of their comfy cottages and bungalows. Currently, an exhibition on films and works that reflect the complexities of the climate crisis, a celebration of blues music and a children’s LEGO group is ongoing.
The Wye River is a favourite spot for keen kayakers and canoeists. You can rent your preferred watercraft from local tour operators and enjoy a hearty breakfast at riverside cafés before your day on the water.
The best time to visit Hay-on-Wye is between June and August when the weather is typically at its best. However, consider visiting during the Hay Festival if you're a book lover.
To reach Hay-on-Wye by road, you can take the M4 over the Severn Bridge to Junction 24, then follow the A449 and A40 to Abergavenny, and continue on the A40 until you reach Hay. Alternatively, you can take the M40 to Oxford, then the A40 to Gloucester, and follow signs to Hay-on-Wye from there.
The closest train station from England is in the city of Hereford, approximately 33 km east of Hay-on-Wye.
