When my fellow travellers and I left behind the urban sprawl of Prague for the roughly 200-kilometre journey to Brno—Czechia’s second-largest city—we were hoping for a leisurely cultural detour and a refreshing escape from the capital’s crowds. The two-hour drive set the tone perfectly, revealing rolling hills, sweeping fields, and quaint rural villages drifting by outside the car window.
Arriving in Brno, this South Moravian gem welcomed us with tidy squares, small-town charm, and a relaxed pace. At first glance, it didn’t shout for attention. But once we descended—quite literally—Brno began to reveal its many layers and its true character.
Our first encounter with Brno’s hidden world came just off the lively Jakubské náměstí square, through an unassuming entrance beside the Church of St. James. The air cooled as we stepped into a haunting yet beautiful space—the St. James Ossuary, one of Europe’s most striking and unexpected sites. Containing the remains of over 50,000 people, it’s the second-largest ossuary in Europe after Paris’s Catacombs. Discovered during restoration work in 2001, it offers a poignant window into Brno’s medieval past—a time of plagues, wars, and overcrowded cemeteries. Inside, skulls and bones are arranged in solemn patterns, softly lit to create a quiet dignity. It’s a humbling reminder of life’s impermanence.
Our guide, a Brno local, smiled knowingly. “This is only the beginning,” she said. “Brno’s underground is vast—a city beneath a city.” She explained how rapid growth in the 14th century pushed Brno to expand downward, creating cellars and tunnels beneath houses and streets. These spaces stored food and water, and later served as shelters during times of danger. By the 17th century, the network had grown even larger, reflecting the city’s ingenuity.
With the midday sun blazing, we hopped on a tram to Žlutý kopec, a quiet hillside neighbourhood. Beneath it lies a complex of underground water reservoirs, built between 1872 and 1913 to supply the city. Abandoned for decades and only recently opened to the public, these massive brick chambers are now among Brno’s most photographed landmarks. Their symmetry, scale, and moody lighting lend them a cathedral-like aura. Occasionally, the site hosts light installations, concerts, and art shows—transforming industrial heritage into an immersive cultural space.
A few blocks away, beneath the bustling Zelný trh (Vegetable Market), another world awaits: the Labyrinth, a maze of medieval cellars once used to store produce, beer, and wine—and, in troubled times, to hide people. Equally evocative is the Capuchin Crypt, where naturally mummified monks and local nobles rest in open coffins, preserved by the dry air and unique soil.
For those drawn to the darker edges of history, Špilberk Castle’s casemates reveal narrow cells that once held Habsburg-era prisoners. Nearby, the 10-Z Bunker, a Cold War relic beneath Petrov Hill, remains intact—complete with decontamination chambers, propaganda posters, and bunk beds. Today, it doubles as both a museum and a retro hostel, bridging past and present.
Above ground, Brno is no less engaging. The sunlit Old Town—with its mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and modernist architecture—buzzes with coffee trucks, trams, and chatter. It’s best explored on foot, without an agenda.
One of the city’s highlights is the Old Town Hall (Stará radnice) on Radnická Street, Brno’s oldest secular building, dating back to the 13th century. A blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements, it’s steeped in local lore. The twisted tower spire, legend says, was a stonemason’s act of revenge after a pay dispute. Beneath it hangs the Brno Dragon—a taxidermied crocodile once mistaken for a mythical beast. The climb to the top rewards you with panoramic views across the city's red roofs.
A short walk uphill leads to Brno’s most famous landmark, the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, featured on the 10 CZK coin. Its Neo-Gothic façade crowns a much older foundation—originally a 12th-century Romanesque chapel later rebuilt into a Gothic church. Inside, gilded altars, carved stonework, and vaulted ceilings radiate reverence. A charming local legend explains why the bells ring daily at 11 a.m. instead of noon: during the Thirty Years’ War, townsfolk rang them early to fool the Swedish army into retreating—saving the city from siege.
Brno’s food scene mirrors its personality—traditional yet inventive. From lively beer halls to experimental fine dining, the city celebrates flavour without pretence.
A few steps from our hotel, Lokál U Caipla serves homestyle Czech fare in a convivial, pub-style setting. The daily Expres lunch offers hearty comfort: lentil soup, crispy fried chicken with vegetables, and a soft apple-curd tart. Simple, filling, and satisfying.
Dinner takes us to Kohout NA VÍNĚ, one of Brno’s most acclaimed restaurants inside the city’s House of Arts. With a wine-forward tasting menu rooted in seasonal Czech ingredients, it redefines local cuisine. Highlights include a catfish Halászlé, pumpkin with apricot and cream cheese, and chicken with Bryndza cheese, chestnuts, and truffle. Dessert—pistachio ice cream paired with elderberry and celeriac—is a playful finale to an elegant, unhurried meal.
Vrbice’s “Hobbiton”: An hour south, Vrbice’s hillside wine cellars—stacked into sandstone cliffs since the 17th century—look straight out of Tolkien.
Pálava Hills & Reisten Winery: In Pavlov village, Reisten Winery pairs stunning lake views with crisp white wines, such as the aromatic local Pálava.
Mikulov: A Baroque beauty ringed by vineyards, Mikulov brims with history and great dining. Don’t miss Marcel Ihnačák’s restaurant for creative regional fare.
Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape (UNESCO): Explore ornate chateaux, boat down the River Dyje, and sample top Czech wines at the Wine Salon of the Czech Republic.
Brno is well-connected by train, bus, and car. The small local airport (BRQ) has limited flights, but Prague, Vienna, and Bratislava are each within easy reach.
Prague to Brno: 2.5 hours
Vienna or Bratislava to Brno: 1.5 hours
May–September offers ideal weather and lively festivals. September, during grape harvest season, is especially rewarding.
Grand Palace Brno, a restored Neo-Renaissance landmark, blends classical grandeur with modern comfort. Its glass-roofed atrium floods the interiors with natural light, creating a serene retreat in the city centre.
Czechia is part of the Schengen Zone. Indian citizens require a Schengen visa.
Czech Koruna (CZK), though euros are accepted in many places.
The city’s tram, bus, and trolleybus system is efficient and inexpensive. Get a BRNOPAS for free transport and discounts on museums and tours.
