The second season of “Paatal Lok” is currently gripping audiences in India with its storyline on investigative crimes that weave in mythological themes. The name of the show is a homophone for the real-life destination of Patalkot in Madhya Pradesh, a place engulfed with dense forests, granite walls and sandstone rocks that are at least 2,500 million years old. The horse-shoe-shaped valley has a deep pit, is carpeted in medicinal herbs and plants, and is home to tribal villages like the Bharias and Gonds.
If you thought the similarity between the show’s name and the Patalkot Valley was just surface-deep, think again. The area is steeped in mythic folklore with numerous legends and tales that hint at how the valley got its name (patal lok means “subterranean realm”).
The first legend involves Meghnad, the son of Ravana, who the Bharia tribe worships. The valley is believed to be a portal to his domain. The second legend is tied to the demon Bhasmasura. The story goes that he received a boon from Lord Shiva that allowed him to turn to ash anyone he placed his hands on. The cheeky demon tried the stunt on Shiva himself, who vanished and plunged into the Earth, creating a massive hole. The demon was later tricked by Mohini, the female form of Lord Vishnu, to place his hand on his own head as he burst into ash.
The third legend refers to the “Ramayana,” when Sita vanishes into the Earth. Thus, the Bharia tribe also refers to the valley as Sita's Patal Pradesh. These tales may have a phenomenological basis, too. When dusk falls, the hills literally shut out the light, making visitors feel like they are deep in the crevices of the valley. During winters, the place barely registers six hours of natural light, while most of the valley is impenetrable during the monsoon season.
Those who wish to get out and about can trek and camp to their heart’s delight in Patalkot. Trails dot the mountain paths and hills that are fertile with mango trees and hidden attractions like the Zingaria Waterfall and the erstwhile military station of the Gond kingdom called Raja Kho. There are also opportunities to go river rafting on the Doodhi River.
In October, the Satpura Adventure Sports Festival is held for visitors to experience a vast range of adventure activities like parasailing, paragliding, rock climbing, trekking, birdwatching and water sports.
If you want to understand the lay of the land and its people more deeply, partner with Tribescapes and Motel Tamia for guided interactions with the local community that include a delicious feast. There’s nothing better than getting to know people by bonding over fresh meals made of locally-grown produce. The tour outfitters also arrange a hilltop breakfast and a high-tea experience at sunset for you to fully immerse yourself in the landscape.
During your trip, make time to learn about how the Gonds and Bharias make their herbal medicine out of pulps and extracts from forest plants. Whether you choose to buy these natural remedies or not, deepening your knowledge about medicinal plants and their usage is invaluable.
Chhind art or khajoor art is making handicrafts with leaves of the chhind tree (wild dates). The tribes of the region also make artefacts from wood and bamboo. You can shop for jewellery, home décor, brooms, baskets and other items to take as souvenirs from Patalkot.
It’s best to visit Patalkot during the monsoon season. The cloudy sky, scent of petrichor and soothing weather at this time enhances the beauty of the valley. October to February is the best time to visit the interiors of the valley, and the months from July to September are ideal for beholding the valley from its top.
Take a flight to the Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar International Airport (NAG) or the train to Chhindwara Junction (CWA). Take a taxi or bus from these places to Patalkot. The city of Chhindwara is easily approachable by road from Nagpur (126 kilometres), Jabalpur (215 kilometres) and Bhopal (313 kilometres), too.
