Hear the name “Kancheepuram,” and you will immediately think of the pure silk saris that adorn women on special occasions like weddings, Pongal festivities and so on. This city, which lies 72 kilometres west of Chennai, is renowned for its temple architecture and old-world charm, so much so that it has been nicknamed “the golden city of a thousand temples.” Of the 108 holy temples dedicated to the Hindu god Lord Vishnu, 15 are located in Kancheepuram alone.
Let’s start with the name. “Kancheepuram” is a Tamil word that means “the city of kanchi flowers.” It is located on the banks of the Vegavathy and Palar Rivers, and has been a site of contestation for many empires and kingdoms—the Pallavas, the Cholas, the Pandyas, the Vijayanagara Empire, the Carnatic kingdom and the British all ruled here at one point or another.
Under the Pallavas, the town flourished as a centre of Hindu and Buddhist learning. King Narasimhavarman II built the city's important Hindu temples, such as the Tiru Parameswara Vinnagaram, the Kailasanathar Temple, the Varadharaja Perumal Temple and the Jurahareswarar Temple.
Buddhism is believed to have flourished in Kancheepuram between the 1st and 5th centuries. Buddhist institutions of this city were instrumental in spreading Theravada Buddhism to the Mon people of Myanmar and Thailand, who in turn spread the religion far and wide.
Many Hindus regard Kancheepuram as one of the seven holiest cities in India, collectively known as the Sapta Puri. Thus, the city is a pilgrimage site for both Vaishnavites and Shaivites. The brilliance of Dravidian architecture and the intricate details on the temples inspire awe and wonder in visitors. Here are some that you should visit:
Spread over 25 acres of land, the Sri Ekambareswarar Temple is one of the largest temple complexes in India. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, and one of South India’s Pancha Bhuta Sthalam, it has several magnificent halls, the most notable of which is its thousand-pillared hall that was built during the Vijayanagara period. This ancient temple is believed to have existed since 600 CE and is mentioned in classical Tamil Sangam literature.
This ancient Pallava-era temple was built around 700 CE by Narasimhavarman II. Famed for its intricately carved Hindu art, the temple houses some of the first mural artworks in Tamil Nadu. The walls of the temple also have many inscriptions in early scripts, which have proved to be significant to the epigraphical study of regional history and traditions. The building is made out of sandstone and is locally known as the “Sand Temple.”
The Kailasanathar Temple is dedicated to Shiva and has a grand entrance hall, a gathering hall and a sanctum sanctorum that is topped with a four-storey vimana (mythological flying palace). There are nine shrines around the main sanctum, seven outside and two inside, with each shrine depicting different forms of the deity. The innermost pathway of the temple circles the idol of Kailasanathar (Shiva) and signifies the entrance and exit of a person from paradise.
As one of 51 Shakti Peethas, where the body parts of the Goddess Sati fell after she self-immolated herself in the fire of her father’s yagna, this temple is not only a place of worship but also a masterpiece of Dravidian architecture. Its intricate carvings, majestic gopurams and serene ponds attract thousands of visitors every year. The main entrance is on the eastern side and leads to the sanctum sanctorum, where the idol of Goddess Kamakshi is enshrined. The idol is made of gold and silver, and is adorned with jewels and flowers.
Also known as the Vaikunta Perumal Temple, this 1,200-year-old Vishnu temple is a Pallava creation. The passage around the central shrine has lion pillars and a wealth of weathered but extremely detailed wall panels, some depicting historical events. It is among the 108 Divya Desams and is considered the second oldest extant temple in Kancheepuram after the Kailasanathar temple. The niches on the walls around the sanctum are similar to the ones in Mahabalipuram. Some of the sculptures depict various events from the “Mahabaratha,” including images of Dharmaraja, Arjuna and Bhima.
Also among the 108 Divya Desams, the Sri Ulagalantha Perumal Temple is built in the Indo-Dravidian architectural style. It is believed that the temple was built by the Pallavas and later modified many times during the reigns of Medieval Cholas, Vijayanagara kings and Nayaks. Thrivikrama, one of the 10 primary avatars of Vishnu, is worshipped here. The elevated roof is designed to accommodate the size of the deity, which stands at 35 feet tall.
Located between the Sri Ekambareswarar Temple and Sri Kamakshi Amman Temple in Kancheepuram is the Sri Subramaniya Swami Temple, widely known as the Kumara Kottam Muruga Temple. Though dedicated to Lord Muruga, the temple also has idols of Shiva, Vishnu, and a few other shrines and sculptures. Tuesdays and the festival of Krithigai are considered to be the most auspicious days of worship at this temple.
You will find a Kancheepuram sari in most Tamil women’s closets. The textile is woven out of pure mulberry silk thread and has a long tradition that traces back over 400 years. It is estimated that over 60,000 weavers are presently involved in the craft of silk weaving, taking between 20-40 days to finish one sari. The saris are created in a plethora of colour, with a zari (border) made of gold or silk thread. The region's architecture, animals, birds and mythological figures are all part of the motifs used in a Kancheepuram sari. The value of this tradition is reflected in the fact that the Kancheepuram sari received a geographical indication (GI) tag from the government of India in order to preserve its authenticity.
Purchase an authentic sari from the P S Silk Sarees Shop on Thoppu Street, the Sri Sarvalakshmi Silks store on Vilakadi Koil Street, the Prakash Silks and Sarees shop on Gandhi Road and the Pachaiyappas Silks store on Kamarajar Street.
Kancheepuram is well-connected by road from Chennai, Madurai and Coimbatore. Chennai International Airport (MAA) is the nearest airport. If you’re travelling by train, get off at Kancheepuram railway station (CJ).
The best time to visit Kancheepuram is between October and March when the weather is pleasant and ideal for exploring the city's ancient temples and silk-weaving heritage. Winter months offer comfortable temperatures ranging from 15°C to 30°C, making sightseeing more enjoyable. The monsoon season (July to September) brings moderate rainfall, enhancing the beauty of temple surroundings, but may cause travel disruptions. Summer (April to June) can be extremely hot, with temperatures soaring above 40°C, making it less favourable for outdoor exploration.
