I grew up in Banaras, and for me, Dev Deepawali on Kartik Poornima is not just a festival, it’s a feeling, a tradition, and one of the most magical nights you can ever witness by the Ganga.
As a child, my father would take us to the ghats on this day. Because of the crowd, we would reach Dashashwamedh Ghat by afternoon itself, just to find a good spot for the evening aarti. I still remember sitting on my father’s shoulders, looking over a sea of people, as the magnificent Ganga Aarti began. The sound of conch shells, the rhythmic chants, the fragrance of burning incense, and thousands of lamps glowing against the dark sky — it felt divine. Even in the chaos, there was peace.
Now, when I go with friends, the tradition feels just as alive, though in new ways. Over the years, Dev Deepawali has grown into an even more spectacular celebration. The ghats shimmer with millions of diyas, creating breathtaking patterns of flowers and colours. Fireworks crackle in the sky, drone formations light up the night, and laser shows at Chet Singh Ghat add a modern touch to the age-old ritual.
But the most unforgettable moment is sitting on a boat and drifting past the ghats, seeing the entire city illuminated — diyas stretching endlessly along the riverbank — while the aarti unfolds at the main ghat. It’s a sight that leaves you speechless.
Dev Deepawali is celebrated on Kartik Poornima, which falls fifteen days after Diwali. On this day, it is believed that the gods descend to Earth to bathe in the holy Ganga. Lakhs of devotees and travellers arrive in Varanasi each year to witness it. Diyas are lit not just on the ghats but also in temples, homes, and even boats — offerings to the river and to Lord Shiva.
This year, Kartik Poornima falls on 5 November 2025. If you’re planning to visit Banaras for Dev Deepawali, start preparing months in advance. Hotels and guesthouses get booked early, and last-minute prices skyrocket. Boats too are in high demand, so bargaining with the boatmen becomes part of the experience.
At the same time, be mindful of your belongings at the ghats. With such large crowds, it’s easy to get swept away by the festivity and lose track.
The day after Dev Deepawali is equally magical. Begin with a peaceful boat ride during Subah-e-Banaras at Assi Ghat. Watch the first light of the sun break through the morning fog, sip steaming chai, and listen to ragas being performed on the steps. Don’t miss the winter delicacy Malaiyo, followed by a breakfast of kachori-chana and jalebi.
In the evening, head out for the famous Tamatar chaat — a tangy, spicy Banarasi favourite you won’t find anywhere else. And of course, end the night with a classic Banarasi paan.
Dev Deepawali is more than just a festival; it’s Banaras at its grandest. People from all over the world gather here, yet somehow it still feels intimate, as if the city itself embraces you. The lamps, the chants, the music, and the devotion all merge into an experience that’s truly once in a lifetime.
For me, Dev Deepawali is not only about rituals and lights, but about belonging. No matter where I am, Banaras always calls me back on this night.
