Violence is an unreasonable hill to die on—this is precisely the bargain that the Bodoland Territorial Council (BTC) chief Pramod Boro has somewhat managed to strike with his people in his tenure so far. He has substantially, even if temporarily, managed to lure violence out of the regime, exposing its seduction to the masses, having been a product of the same politics himself. So now, after a few good years of peace, Bodoland feels ready to welcome tourists in its verdant terrain, and I was among the first few roster of visitors.
Nestled in the northeastern arm of India, Bodoland represents the cultural and political identity of the Bodo people, considered one of the oldest ethnic groups in Assam. Bodoland is further divided into five districts, namely, Kokrajhar, Chirang, Baksa, Udalguri, and Tamulpur. The land is marked by centuries of indigenous presence, allegedly dating back to ancient times when Bodo enjoyed a considerable command in the fertile plains of Brahmaputra—information that I was educated about by Boro as part of a candid conversation. Historically agrarian, the Bodos have played a pivotal role in shaping the region's socio-economic fabric. Come late 20th century, the land witnessed rising demands for autonomy on account of political marginalisation and cultural erosion leading to mass unrest and agitations. Political accords followed and the 1993 peace agreement marked the creation of the Bodoland Autonomous Council, granting limited self-governance to the Bodo people under the Sixth Schedule of the Indian Constitution. This administrative unit aimed to address the socio-economic and cultural aspirations of the community. In 2003, the Bodoland Territorial Council (BTC) was formed through another peace accord, expanding autonomy and focusing on development in education, infrastructure, and the preservation of Bodo identity.
Later, the 2020 peace agreement brought further transformation with the conception of Bodoland Territorial Region (BTR), extending greater executive and legislative power to the land. The BTR aimed to redefine boundaries to attach more Bodo-speaking areas. Devanagari was adopted as the script of the Bodo language and turned into an associate official language of Assam. So now, when you’re in the area, you’d feel that while the land may have a pungent imprint of historic violence just below its skin, a certain calm and quietude prevails–if not merely organic, then surely weighed in by the countless accords, shaping peace into an unspoken mandate. I felt the same.
For the uninitiated, as of August 2024, the BTC has been governed by an alliance comprising the United People's Party Liberal (UPPL), the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) and the Gana Suraksha Party (GSP) with UPPL's Pramod Boro as the Chief Executive Member. During my visit, coinciding with the completion of five years of the peace accord signed between the Bodo groups, the Centre and the Assam government, chief Boro addressed the media: “What we need now is policy and funding; we have huge potential here and we need technology, knowledge, and financial support to make Bodoland like any other part of the country.” And to this end, the BTC expects from the Centre that Article 280 should be implemented in the Council, making way for direct funds from the Union government.
Understood simply, Article 280 of the Indian Constitution sets up the Finance Commission, which decides how tax money is shared between the central government and the states to ensure fair development and financial balance across the country.
The following day, addressing the media in the green room of a mega event celebrating the five years of Bodo accord, Assam chief minister Himanta Biswa Sarma expressly conveyed that the Centre is not opposed to the amendment of Article 280 but may still be mulling over it in terms of equal power distribution between the state and the Union. This comes ahead of the elections imminent for the BTC.
Bodoland is a treasure trove for travellers seeking natural beauty or cultural experiences. If you're travelling any time soon, ditch the dreams of big malls or Michelin food. Instead, immerse in rustic brilliance.
One of the crowned possessions of Bodoland, and one that I had the fortune to visit briefly, is the famed Manas National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its lush forests and endangered species like the golden langur and the pygmy hog.
In my hour-long pitstop limited to the threshold of the park, I spotted a pair of sunbirds, a solitary Indian peafowl calling from a distance, a Black-winged cuckooshrike on a treetop, and even one classic Manas rhinoceros in the far horizon.
While Manas remains on the outskirts, one can head down and explore Raimona National Park, a former lair for the militants which was known as the Ripu-Chirang Reserve Forest (RCRF). Situated in the heart of Bodoland and still in its infancy, here, you’ll find golden langurs showing off their antics, elephants always at-hand yet masterfully elusive, birds of incalculable species, shy deer, and lush trees in abundance.
The sight of golden langurs may come across as ordinary to the uninitiated eye but these luminous little runts are among the 25 most endangered primates in the world. Their numbers have dropped by as much as 60 per cent in Bhutan. The only other known population lives in Assam, where your observant narrator now roams.
Raimona is now also a natural habitat where reformed poachers seemingly work as conservationists, adding a unique dimension to the park’s story. Speaking to a couple of these ex-poachers, I was given to understand that through government’s initiative and suchlike, the poachers seem to have backpedalled on their lives of gore and crime and admittedly go so far as to encourage their still unreformed friends to reassess their lives.
While still wading my way through dust and gravel, owing to the untrodden paths of Raimona, we passed the Bhutan-India checkpost to reach River Sankosh. It flows near the Bhutan border, offering mesmerising views reminiscent of Pangong Tso Lake in Ladakh; the resemblance to Pangong Tso is so uncanny that a couple of my fellow visitors found themselves speaking about the Bollywood movie "3 Idiots", which features the lake in Ladakh at length. At this river, rafting is on the cards and positively imminent.
In Kokrajhar, history enthusiasts can pay tribute to Bodoland’s heroes at the Martyr's Cemetery in Kokrajhar, a solemn space honouring those who laid down their lives in the region’s struggle for identity and peace. It houses 1,605 tombs inscribed with names and addresses of those who made the supreme sacrifice between 1987 and 2003. The cemetery also has bronze statues of the movement's first martyrs.
Beyond its natural wonders, Bodoland is steadily making its mark as a centre for cultural and technological development. The Silk Park in the region highlights the craftsmanship of Bodo Eri silk, a handwoven fabric recently awarded the GI (Geographical Indication) tag. This recognition helps preserve traditional weaving techniques and supports local artisans. Notably, Muga silk, with its golden sheen, and Eri silk (a stable fiber with continuous filaments) are valued for its warmth and sustainability (silkworm rearing for both fabrics are considered environmentally friendly and carbon neutral), reflecting Assam’s rich craftsmanship. In the Silk Park, scientific silkworm rearing now also serves as the source of livelihood for many school dropouts.
For food enthusiasts, Bodoland offers a rich local spread, with Bodo-style pork delicacies cooked in bamboo shoots and peppered with indigenous herbs, creating flavours that linger long after the meal.
The land long straddled with violence is also making headlines within the education sector, setting new benchmarks with the introduction of space labs in schools and equipping students with advanced learning opportunities. The government's focus on building IT parks, hosting grand football events, and setting up their own literary festival remains on transforming the region into something it has never been. They aim to create a welcoming environment for industrialists and capitalist ventures to potentially boost innovation and culture.
Contrary to the historical perception, Bodoland comes out as a safe space to travel in the current ecology. Although raised on too many tragedies, it continues to be an astonishing site of abandonment of arms and sustained peace accord. Only time will tell whether this calm after the storm is here to stay or whether it's slithering under the surface, ready to ignite at any spark. If the former endures, it is for Pramod Boro to share his noble doctrine of peace with the world in good time.
