Beyond The Signboard: Kakkayam Dam In Kerala, An Offbeat Gem To Explore

Some places have a quiet charm—those you pass often but rarely pause to enjoy. A detour is what everyone needs in life, something we yearn for but seldom dare to take.

In the last two decades, I must have travelled a 100 times between my farmhouse in Wayanad and the Calicut airport. Each time, I would pass the signboard pointing to the Kakkayam Dam, yet I had never taken the 43 km detour before the ghat section began.

Kakkayam Dam isn't a historical landmark or a popular tourist spot. In fact, most travellers heading to the hill station of Wayanad skip it altogether. Tourists who aren’t locals rarely know of its existence. For those who do, the place stirs haunting memories—a notorious police camp once operated here during the dark days of the Emergency. Locals still speak in hushed tones of people who were allegedly taken by the police to the camp, never to return.

Kerala has picturesque dams, but tourists usually flock to the backwaters and beaches. Mountain retreats remain low on most itineraries. Only Munnar and, to a limited extent, Wayanad have gained traction in recent years. Yet almost every district in Kerala hides a beautiful hill town or two. These secluded spots—reservoir areas and forested terrain—retain their raw charm precisely because they’re so rarely visited.

One day, on a whim, I decided to follow that winding, narrow road. My son and daughter wanted to see something new. It turned out to be one of the best detours of my life.

Offbeat Gem In Kerala: Kakkayam Dam

The first 20 minutes of the drive took us through typical Kerala plantations. Occasionally, palatial homes peeked through the green canopy. In the distance, the valley stretched out towards Calicut. It was pleasant, but nothing spectacular to someone used to Kerala’s verdant landscapes. But everything changed near the small hamlet of Kariyathumpara.

Suddenly, the scenery transformed into something out of a fairy tale: a winding river flowed through rolling meadows, layered blue hills rose and disappeared into the clouds, and the sparkling, transparent waters revealed every pebble and darting fish like a frame from a nature documentary.

This area is within the 74 sq km of the Malabar Wildlife Sanctuary. With hardly any tourists, it remains pristine and unspoiled. Like a medieval European painting, the meadow stretched to the distant peak of Kariyathu Mala. Cows grazed, and an odd horse wandered through the fields. My daughter’s first reaction upon encountering this stunning scenery was the classic Indian response: “This is not India.”

The water was shallow, barely waist-deep, and we couldn’t resist taking an afternoon dip—reliving childhood memories. For my city-born-and-bred children, it felt like stepping into a scene from "Malgudi Days." It made me wonder what we’re all doing, trapped in our congested, polluted, noisy cities, when we could be farming a small patch of land in this slice of paradise, far from the rat race.

Having come so far, we decided to explore further along the lonely road to Kakkayam, at 2,450 ft above sea level. The destination revealed itself gradually, without drama—like hushed murmurs rising through the Western Ghats. The air was scented with flowers I couldn’t name. On either side, a Jurassic Park-like world emerged—lush and untamed, with dense forests cascading into deep ravines.

The Kuttiyadi River is dammed here, forming a tranquil artificial lake surrounded by jagged peaks and cascading waterfalls. The area is teeming with wildlife, making it a haven for photographers and nature lovers. But more than anything, the deep, almost sacred silence struck me—a quietude only nature can provide.

Those who do, feel grateful that such places remain hidden. Twisting paths wind across thick forests and craggy terrain. The imposing rock formation called Kariyathan Mala challenges even seasoned adventurers. The clerk at the ticket counter told me the climb was breathtaking—literally and figuratively. I made a mental note to return for it another day.

We saw the obligatory speedboat, waiting for the occasional visitor to disturb the stillness. A sailboat might have felt more fitting here, gliding across the lake in the breeze. The forest surrounding the dam is home to elephants, leopards, bears, and even the occasional tiger crossing over from the Wayanad hills. Waterfalls tumble into the lake from mist-covered hills, completing the dreamscape.

Kakkayam Dam: A Detour To Remember

We didn’t want to leave. But the lure of the supposedly haunted Urakkuzhi waterfalls drew us onward. Local folklore says the bodies of those killed during the Emergency-era police brutality were thrown into these falls. The name "Urakkuzhi" comes from two Malayalam words: Ural, a traditional grinding stone, and Kuzhi, meaning cavity. The natural holes in the rock resemble ancient mortars. One local warned us that if someone slipped and fell into one of those depressions, the body would never be found—the cavities are that deep.

The terrain was rugged and treacherous, with sharp rocks jutting out and a constant sense of unease. Yet it was rich in flora and fauna, a testament to nature’s undisturbed reign. Rare birds flitted through the canopy, and flowering plants thrived in the misty microclimate. The sounds—shrill birdcalls, rustling leaves—seemed prehistoric, as if time had paused in this pocket of the world.

As dusk settled, the moon rose beyond the ridges, casting an ethereal glow over the rainforest. One could almost hear wails echoing behind the falls. Did spirits from another era still haunt the hollows? As darkness enveloped the hills, we made our way back, the silence in the car sweet and reflective.

This detour offered far more than just sightseeing. It had given us a glimpse into Kerala’s hidden soul—far from its over-promoted backwaters and crowded beaches. Places like Kakkayam must remain hidden, not out of secrecy but for preservation. Mass tourism would bring concrete structures, food stalls, and litter. The waters would cloud, the meadows would lose their hush, and the falls would lose their mystery. Kakkayam’s magic lies in its isolation, whispered histories, and stories locked in deep rock pools. It stands for the countless gems scattered across India—destinations beyond guidebooks and Instagram filters. They remind us of a world that once was before we turned it into vacation packages and selfie spots.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences lie just a turn away from the main road—waiting for those bold enough to take the road less travelled. Kakkayam will remain our secret paradise, a testament that some places deserve to stay hidden in this age of over-tourism and geo-tags, preserving their wild beauty for those who truly seek it.

The Information | Kakkayam Dam, Kerala

How To Reach Kakkayam Dam?

Nearest railway station is Kozhikode, about 65 km, and nearest airport is Karipur International Airport, about 80 km.

When Is The Best Time To Visit Kakkayam Dam?

The best time to visit is from October to March. The Dam is open from 10 AM to 5 PM

What Is The Cost Of Boating In Kakkayam?

Boat riding is a must if you want to explore the hidden beauty of the place. Kerala Hydel Tourism Centre (KHTC), a subsidiary of Kerala State Electricity Board (KSEB), runs a speed-boat service through the reservoir. A trip costs INR 750 and the boats can run up to 50 trips a day.