The fascination for most things begins in childhood and resurfaces when you come into your own. Every summer, I remember my father, weary of the Calcutta heat, standing gazing at the skies, predicting that the southwest monsoon was on its way from Kerala. I would imagine torrential rains and a land washed green, vast paddy fields flourishing under darkened skies. In my mind, it became a canvas of my imagination — of rain, clouds, and endless fields.
Palakkad, or Palghat, is the most significant of the three gaps in the Western Ghats. It is a 1,600 km-long range in western India serving as a natural port, supposedly influencing the southwest monsoons in India, and is famously called the entrance to Kerala. It is located between the Nilgiris and Anaimalai Hills and connects Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The gap, about 30 km wide, is a natural doorway or pass for wildlife, trade, and weather — leading to biodiversity and cultural exchange for centuries.
Palakkad lies a few hours’ journey from both Kochi and Coimbatore by road (less than two hours), or by air and rail from Bangalore, Chennai, and Kochi. Palakkad has narrow, winding roads that feel more like a driver navigating the turns of a racetrack, filled with natural and human-induced obstacles. The journey into the Indian villages is not for those who cling to routine or shy away from the unexpected. Here, the sharp turns and narrow alleys require fine skill and immense patience, and your inexperience may subject you to unintentional use of vitriolic gestures or language. However, at the end of every turn lies a beautiful rustic home, a divine temple, an open paddy field, or ancient public buildings from the colonial era.
Palakkad is neither a hill station nor an urban sprawl. Here, nature thrives in abundance — dense forests, lush green foliage, and abundant banana trees amidst the paddy fields offer a scenic vision. Within easy reach lie treasures like Silent Valley National Park, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, and the Malampuzha Dam. If you desire to see beautiful traditional buildings, both old and new, visit the Municipal Office, the Old Fort Police Station, and other public buildings that have been maintained to retain their old charm. However, several stand neglected and broken, in need of care and restoration. Palakkad has small villages — some of the most beautiful in India.
Architecture here is unmatched in its grace. Nowhere else in the world does one find such a purposeful union of tradition and modernity. The sloping red-tiled roofs framing open courtyards, the cool wooden interiors with ornately carved doors, and Parisian-style windows beautifully use all the natural elements in equal measure. The Nalukettu houses are a hallmark of Kerala’s style. The central courtyards (Nadumuttam), cradled by rooms on all four sides, embrace living in harmony with nature. The architecture in Palakkad is Dravidian. Most of the structures here represent Indian Vedic architecture and reflect European influences — Portuguese, French, Italian, German, and Dutch. This is due to the historical significance of the place, which once served as a trading location for European countries. Hence, this region stands as a living testimony to a place embracing the fine sensibilities of many cultures.
I found myself living in a home of aesthetic beauty in Ramaserry, a charming village in Palakkad. It was a beautifully restored century-old Tharavadu, symbolic of joint family living as a community. The rooms were tastefully adorned, with a four-poster bed, high ceilings, and each corner reflecting effortless elegance, while the ensuite blended traditional charm with the ease of modern comforts. Like most homes in this place, there were two courtyards — one at the front and one at the rear end of the house — serving as a living stage for life to flourish amidst the abundance of natural elements. The beauty of a home is enhanced when natural elements are used to adorn and balance every space, hence the strategic placement of brass urns and clay pottery.
Within a radius of every five kilometres stands a temple, graceful and alive with daily rituals unfolding in disarming simplicity. The reverberating chants loosen the knots of the soul as loud prayers to Shiva, Vishnu, Parvati, and Bhagavathy echo through the stillness of dawn and dusk. When evening descends, the shrines come alive in the orange glow of countless diyas. The deities, adorned with flowers, radiate in golden splendour, surrounded by corridors of hanging lamps. Hinduism may be the soul of Palakkad, but the harmony of many faiths is woven gently into its fabric.
The famous temple of the place is the Kalpathy Temple (built in the 15th century), dedicated to Shiva and situated on the banks of the Neela or Kalpathy River. I was introduced to the concept of Agraharm here — two rows of linear attached Brahmin homes sharing common walls and running parallel to a temple. These small homes traditionally served and attended to the running of the temple and the faith. Unfortunately, this way of life is rapidly disappearing, giving way to modern lifestyles and more convenient, shorter religious practices.
In the morning, as I strolled into the dining room, a steaming cup of tea warming my hands, I watched the rain cascade into the courtyard. The air was rich with the scent of wet earth, and in the distance, the soft strains of morning prayers floated through the air, weaving a gentle hymn into the day. The place offers a traditional serving of soft dosa-shaped Ramaserry Idlis. I walked to a non-descript small shop nearby selling hot idlis soaked in spicy roasted gram chutney.
There is a strange connection you feel to a place even though you are a stranger to its language and culture, yet it strikes a familiar chord. Strangely, the homes here mirror my imagination so perfectly, it feels as though life is gently teasing me — placing before my eyes the very vision of a home that I desire.
1. Where is Ramaserry located?
Ramaserry is a scenic village near Palakkad (Palghat) in Kerala, located close to the Palghat Gap connecting Kerala and Tamil Nadu.
2. What is Ramaserry famous for?
It is known for its soft, steamed Ramaserry Idlis, traditional Tharavadu homes, ancient temples, and tranquil paddy fields that come alive during the monsoon.
3. How can one reach Ramaserry?
Ramaserry is accessible by road from Coimbatore or Kochi (under two hours). The nearest airports are Coimbatore International and Kochi International.
4. What is the best time to visit Ramaserry?
The best time to visit is between June and September for the monsoon experience or October to February for cooler, pleasant weather.
5. What are the main attractions near Ramaserry?
Nearby sites include the Kalpathy Temple, Silent Valley National Park, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Malampuzha Dam, and Palakkad Fort.
6. What kind of architecture can be seen in Palakkad?
Palakkad blends traditional Dravidian and Kerala styles — sloping red-tiled roofs, wooden courtyards, and colonial influences from the Portuguese and Dutch eras.
