When Mahasweta Bose goes to the fish market, she has more than one curry in mind. Along with the Bangladeshi moroula maach er muitha, where tiny Indian carplet float in a spicy curry, she&rsquos also got her eyes on hilsa and rohu. The former would once crop up in delightful numbers during the monsoons&mdasha three-kilo-star that you&rsquod have to tug home. The latter, fried until crunchy, with salt and turmeric, was a great snack with beer. But when she visits markets today, the apathy leaves a bad taste in her mouth. In a bid to make the best of a depleting supply, fishmongers have been selling juvenile fish for the past few years&mdasha pattern that is completely unsustainable.

