This strange, genre-defying book by Hartosh Singh Bal hasn&rsquot really received the recognition it deserves. In part, I think it&rsquos because it defies the expectations of both readers and reviewers. It is simultaneously a story of a &lsquoparikrama&rsquo of the Narmada and an erudite examination of the religiosities of the people along the river&rsquos banks. It discusses &mdash in its effortlessly scholarly way &mdash art, sociology and the different takes on anthropology that have informed discourse along the river&rsquos length, while remaining a politically-freighted commentary on what is happening to it now, and in India at large. Bal is at home discussing Kabirpanthis and the Upanishads, Elwin and his progeny, Gond art and the Delhi salons that enable its dissemination.