Rice balls I make a second attempt to guess a dish in front of me. I am fairly confident in my answer and continue digging in. For my next course, my server, Khun Moo, brings forth a soup (pho, by the smell of it) in a jug and encourages me to pour it out myself. Baby steps, she tells me. It isn&rsquot every day that I act this unfamiliar with the customs of eating out. But then again, it isn&rsquot every day that I sit in a pitch-dark restaurant in downtown Bangkok, making my way through each bite with newfound wonder.


