It’s not every day that you feel like a princess—I certainly don’t! But it all changed during my recent visit to Rajasthan.
Instead of a chariot, a swanky car rolled down the porch of Anantara Jewel Bagh in Jaipur. Two stone elephants stood still, nagadas were beaten, bhavai dancers whirled, and garlands placed around my neck, making it a ceremonial welcome to the palatial property.
You know you have arrived in Rajasthan when you are welcomed with such warm manwar. “Padharo mhare desh, baisa! (Welcome to my country, Lady!)” said Sunny as he beat the nagadas.
I entered, instantly in awe of the beauty. My eyes were restless, jumping from detail to another trying hard to soak it all in at once. From the traditional thikri and jaali art that draped all walls of the Raj Mahal lobby to the hand-painted masterpieces that lined the walls of the adjacent waiting area, I couldn’t peel my eyes away. But first, I decided to settle into my room giving into traveller’s fatigue.
This 150-room hotel marks the debut of Anantara Hotels and Resorts in India. It took five years for the hotel to complete before opening to public in March 2025. A month since its opening and I finally got a chance to see and experience it first-hand, that too at the terrace suite!
The aroma of fresh flowers arranged as a rangoli, a palace made using white chocolate and paired with a cute frame with my photograph, and a towel swan that sat on the bed greeted this princess in her den.
The palace, as I like to call it, was a unique blend of modern and age-old elements. Gold leaves on the ceiling, carved wooden panels around the cosy jharokha beds, a painting of Maharaja Jai Singh of Jaipur, two swords over the bed, and intricately carved jaalis around the suite completed the decor. But this was just the start.
Up ahead, a door led to the terrace and Jacuzzi. It reminded me of my childhood, all of which was spent in a haveli in Jaipur’s walled city. Each door of the haveli had the saankal, a traditional lock system. “Truly homely, truly Rajasthani,” I thought to myself.
While the rooms are gorgeous, luxurious, and comfortable, other spaces, too, drew me towards its beauty. From a painting of Hyderabad’s nizams at the waiting area to portraits of Maharani Gayatri Devi and Maharana Pratap at Diwan-e-khaas, the property spilled with hand-drawn paintings—most of which, I’m told, were made by artist S.S. Pandit.
However, on many occasions, I made little sense of why a certain painting was placed where it was. Personally, I found it odd seeing the Nizams of Hyderabad standing against a painting of the Ganesh Pol at the Amer Fort! Then again, art is subjective and I'm no expert.
Apart from its regal façade, featuring 86 open and 50 closed jharokhas, the hotel’s claim to fame is their standout indoor venue, Rang Mahal. Studded with paintings, the venue is resplendent yet overwhelming. I ventured in to see what the fuss was about, but even before I could scan the room, my eyes went straight to the ceiling. I saw portraits of rulers of Rajasthan peering down at me; somewhere in a corner, I spotted a picture of Hindu deity Krishna dancing with gopis, while elsewhere, a bride was celebrating her mehendi rituals. It was painting packed!
Outdoors, the Amer Bagh was an ideal location for a wedding or event. The team tells me it was created to replicate the Ganesh Pol at the Amer Fort. While the venue is ideal, a comparison was unnecessary. I ventured further to see more nooks of the hotel.
My explorations led me to the Jai Bagh, one of my favourite venues at the Anantara Jewel Bagh, Jaipur. Sitting in one of the baradaris and sipping the chilled ganne ka juice (sugarcane juice), I caught a glimpse of my city in the distance, while beholding the splendour of the Jewel Bagh. The sun disappeared into the sky, leaving behind shades of orange as the hotel lit up behind me. “Let’s meet for dinner at 7.30,” said Ritu, who guided me through the stay.
Food at Anantara was innovative and impressive. The hotel has three dining venues: Amrit Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, and Rajputana Chowk. Spoilt for choice, I relished a meal at all three.
A unique, South-Indian homecoming dinner at Rajputana Chowk was the highlight. Idlis turned into tulips, deconstructed sambar, dosa taco, and a well-plated coconut panna cotta with jasmine payasam were all lip smacking.
Executive chef at the hotel, Sunil Jajoria and his troop are magicians, I declared as I devoured each dish. I’m convinced the team sways their wands over a dish to conjure up brilliance. They had put up a great show with the newly launched menu at the glistening Sheesh Mahal, too. It was a gastronomic time machine that took me back to the forgotten recipes of Rajasthan. While a few dishes sounded familiar—thanks to my grandmother’s recipes—others were unheard of.
Gwarpathe ka halwa (aloe vera halwa), namak siki bina pani ki roti, and mewati gosht baajri ki tahiri, were some of the many lost dishes that were given a second life. While it was tough to resist a Maharani Mahansar cocktail, (blame the early flight back to Delhi the following morning!) I settled for a pineapple sangria instead.
Gudda and Guddi, Munna Bhai's puppets, would accompany me for a late-night date. I sat watching the two narrate a love story during the cultural evening organised at the Jai Bagh. Turns out this performance is a daily ordeal. Truly a slice of nostalgia these shows! There was also Salim Bhai who was melting lac to make bangles of your preferred colour combinations. I went for a deep blue alternated by pink. Further ahead, a tarot-card reader was accompanied by his parrot. "Mitthu, go pick up a card," he said from time to time.
The Spice and Spoons experience takes you through the spice markets of Jaipur and prepare a Rajasthani meal from scratch. I tried to follow along as Chef Jajoria prepared Bejad ki Roti and aloo ka achar. I thought I would be able to replicate the recipe, but my memory decided to play tricks. What I do remember, though, is how much I loved the roti with a hearty dollop of white butter. Then again, a princess doesn’t need to cook, does she? This princess will just return to Anantara Jewel Bagh, Jaipur the next time she wants a royal treatment.
Location: Tonk Rd, Bilwa, Sitapura, Jaipur, Manpur Nagalya, Rajasthan 303903
For bookings and more information, visit anantara.com