From the moment he started singing, I had a smile on my face. A man, dressed in the usual black-and-white striped tee and ebony trousers of a gondolier, performed an Italian song while he rowed his gondola across a canal. I was seated on one of its velvety, cushioned seats. He sang what seemed like a barcarolle, or a folk tune caroled by these canoe rowers in a specific style. As our boat travelled onward, it passed by waters surrounded on both sides by large, lined houses with gothic faades. It emerged from underneath bridges and turned a corner at a place from where I could see clearly the Leaning Tower of Pisa. I mused on my gondolier, who synchronised his songs rhythm with the tempo of his paddlingtrue to how barcarolle is supposed to be timed.

