Nostalgic Nosh: Eateries From The Pre-Independence Era In India

"A house that has been experienced is not an inert box. Inhabited space transcends geometrical space," sensibly pens Gaston Bachelard about spaces of everyday life around us in his famous work "The Poetics of Space." While great literature remains open to the liberal subjective speculation, it could be surmised that Bachelard must be hinting, at some level, at the remnants of things past. Such is the case with the colonial era spaces scattered across the face of India.

As you enter the Indian Coffee House of Kolkata, it's as if you walk through a passage from the 21st century to the 20th century, dominated by cafe culture and intellectualism over coffee cups and cigarettes. The walls of the cafe have overheard numerous passionate discussions and debates by figures like Rabindranath Tagore, Satyajit Ray, Mrinal Sen, Manna Dey, and Amartya Sen, as the place has been the hub for local adda-bazi. The corners and crevices echo the din of the things past, and the overall aesthetic of the place has been preserved, in an anti-evolutionary manner, to the way it must have been on day one for the coffee house. It is a live snapshot through the peephole of time that you can tune in to any time you want.

Explore the many places across India that are as much a live cultural museum as they are food joints. Find the site nearest to you and head out with your friends for an evening of good times within the living past.

Karim’s, New Delhi

Located a stone's throw from the mediaeval mosque Jama Masjid in Old Delhi, Karim's is a historic restaurant that has been catering to the Mughlai taste buds of Delhi. The restaurant that has witnessed the carnivalesque humbug of Shahjahanabad, and offers glimpses of it through its spices, was established by Haji Karimuddin. Karimuddin was the son of Mohammad Aziz, a cook in the royal kitchen of the last Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar.

The bestseller at this restaurant is Mutton Burra and Chicken Jehangiri. Nehari, which is simmered to perfection overnight and consumed as breakfast as well as the delectable Badam Pasanda are also sought-after at Karim's. You can stroll along the lanes of Old Delhi, witness the charming heritage monuments and then head to the restaurant for a hearty meal.

Address: Shyam Lal Rd, Bazar Matia Mahal, Jama Masjid, Chandni Chowk, New Delhi, Delhi, 110006

Hours: 11 am to 11 pm

Price: INR 700 for two

Indian Coffee House, Kolkata

What was established as the Albert Hall in 1876 was converted into a coffee house in 1941. The Indian Government later changed the name to Indian Coffee House in 1947. The place is built in a classic Indo-Saracenic style with high ceilings and balconies within a two storey affair. Long-corded fans hang from the ceilings and small tables are scattered all over the place; turbaned waiters in colonial bureaucratic uniforms of starched white busy themselves across the premises. The place has witnessed all the angles in discussions of the war in Vietnam, the sexual revolution of Paris, the cultural revolution in China, the films of Jean-Luc Godard, the realism of Satyajit Ray and much more. For the longest time the place has acted as the hub for students, filmmakers, poets, politicians, and other people from all walks of life.

The place is famous for coffee, omelette, chicken cutlet, mutton cutlet, Chinese dishes, fish and chips and much more, all at a reasonable price. You can walk along College Street, also known as Boi Par (Colony of Books) as you check out the books on display at the thrift shops. Witness the nearby attractions and head to the iconic Coffee House for idling your time away over coffee and the aura of the place.

Address: Bankim Chatterjee St, College Square West, College Street, Kolkata, West Bengal 700073

Hours: 9 am to 9 pm

Price: INR 400 for two

Leopold Café, Mumbai

Originally a wholesale oil store, the Leopold Café and Bar of Mumbai was established  in 1871 by Sherezad Dastur and is considered one of the first Irani cafes in the city. The place gets its name from the King Leopold of Belgium. The history and heritage of the cafe are seen in its archival in Gregory David Roberts' novel "Shantaram." The place is mostly packed and was tragically a victim to the 26/11 attacks of Mumbai. The bullet marks on the walls are now well preserved.

The place is known for its blueberry cheesecake, pastries, pie, draught beer and chicken poppers, among other things. You can walk along the lanes of Colaba and later head to the cafe and ruminate over the life story of Shantaram over delicious snacks.

Address: Police Station, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba Causeway, near Colaba, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001

Hours: 7:30 am to 12 am

Price: INR 1,200 for two

Glenary’s, Darjeeling

Standing gloriously in Chauk Bazaar of Darjeeling, Glenary's is an iconic eatery that has stood for generations. The establishment dates back to the British Raj and began as Vado under its Italian owner, later renamed Pliva. After independence, a Patna-based family purchased it, altering the name. A. T. Edwards, employed at the establishment since 1945, assumed the post of the manager in 1959, and his family now owns and operates the restaurant.

The bakery is renowned for its chocolates and baked treat, especially for its toasty apple pie, cinnamon buns, and other snacks and savouries that seamlessly compliment the refreshing Darjeeling tea. You must visit the little cafe to enjoy a meal with the view of the majestic Kanchenjunga.

Address: Nehru Rd, near Clock Tower, Chauk Bazaar, Darjeeling, West Bengal 734101

Hours: 6:30 am to 9:30 pm

Price: INR 400 for two

Flurys, Kolkata

Nestled within the charming old colonial buildings of Park Street, often referred as the Shaheb-er-Para (neighbourhood of Englishmen), Flury's is a tearoom that opened in 1927. The place was founded by the Swiss couple Joseph and Freida Flury and served both British sahebs and locals alike. It acted as one of the elements of the cultural fabric of Kolkata full of languid trams, weatherbeaten colonial buildings, rolling football drums that acted as goal posts, New Wave cinema, grassroots politics and much more. The place also served as the hub for artistic clubs and is known to have been visited by Satyajit Ray once for a slice of cake.

Flurys is known for its European traditional confections, pastries, chocolates, puddings, cakes and rum balls. You must walk about exploring the charming architecture and urban plans of the vicinity before you enter the heritage eatery for a delightful meal.

Address: Mother Teresa Sarani, Park Street area, Kolkata, West Bengal 700071

Hours: 6 am to 12 am

Price: INR 400 for two