Experiencing The Thrill Of Rafting The Grand Canyon

The bright October sun beams down on the rapid known as Lava Falls as though it were focused through a celestial magnifying glass. High above, the walls of the Grand Canyon rise nearly 5,000 feet, revealing 1.7 billion years of geologic history, from the pink Kaibab limestone down to the black Vishnu Schist. Each layer reveals another chapter of the earth's story. Rough, rocky stripes resemble a growth chart for the planet, the kind your parents likely marked on the kitchen wall or the doorway to your bedroom.

But for now, as I peer down from a bluff dotted with spiky yuccas and gnarled tamarisk bushes in search of a safe way through the boiling rapid, the past feels inconsequential. The thunder of the Colorado River, which drops a dramatic 13 feet at Lava Falls, rings in my ears. The exploding waves offer confirmation that we are set to descend one of the toughest stretches of whitewater in North America.

I have waited 10 years to get here, and right now, there is no place in the world I would rather be. It's safe to say that the same is true for the other 15 people along for the ride. And the surprising thing is that while Lava Falls and other rough rapids will become grand, flashy highlights of our Grand Canyon float—an adventure undertaken each year by approximately 20,000 people—our crew will also find joy in long, lazy days on the river, campfire singalongs, and occasional hikes up and down the hidden canyons along the river's length. In the absence of cell phones, iPods, and the Internet, we'll make our own music, devise our own games, and discover something like salvation in the wilderness.

An Evergreen American Bucket List

Like many Americans, floating the Grand Canyon long lingered near the top of my life list for outdoor adventures, in a space generally reserved for fantasies and what-ifs. Truly, there is no more storied river in the U.S. than the Colorado, which was first navigated successfully in 1869 by Major John Wesley Powell, a 35-year-old Civil War veteran. Having taken three months and covered more than 1,000 river miles with his crew, Powell's accomplishment is all the more incredible when you consider that his right arm had been amputated during the war. Lake Powell was named for the pioneering explorer, and on the canyon's South Rim stands a memorial erected in 1915. Today, the standard Colorado River trip starts at Lee's Ferry and travels 270 miles through the deepest, narrowest sections of the canyon before ending at the slack water behind Hoover Dam.

Most people raft the Grand Canyon with a commercial outfitter, but adding to my high spirits and good fortune was the fact that I had friends willing and capable of making a three-week assault on the mighty Colorado. Our private trip had been organized by my old pal Wayne Fairchild, a veteran guide from Montana, who, a decade earlier, had invited me to join him whenever he and his father, Gene, managed to draw a private permit for the Grand Canyon. This meant that instead of relying on guides to figure out the logistics, menus, and safety, the planning fell to Wayne and his hand-picked crew. In the end, most of the team was made up of professional guides from other areas of the country, who were taking a busman's holiday by "pushing rubber on the Grand." I was one of six replacement rowers invited to meet the raft flotilla after the first week.

As part of the week-two crew, we had missed a week of paddling, but I was content to hit the South Rim and make the five-mile hike down the South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch. As soon as I dropped off the rim and out of the morning sunlight, the entire personality of the canyon seemed to change. I left behind the crowds and the "industrial tourism" that the late patron saint of the Southwestern desert, Ed Abbey, described, and found myself face-to-face with a wildly complex world of sand and scrub. Instead of looking down on wildlife, such as the endangered California condor, I felt as though the animals were looking down on me. Given that most of the four million visitors who come to the Grand Canyon spend just a few hours exploring the 1.2 million-acre park, it felt good to have the trail to myself for most of the morning, but I could hardly keep from rushing headlong directly to the river. From Phantom Ranch, we still had 140 miles of river to cover, and the challenges of not just Lava, but also the notorious rapids at Horn Creek, Crystal, and Upset—to name a few. The journey looked ambitious, if nothing else.

Now, as the days begin to flow together, I find myself surrounded by long-time and newfound friends, watching my buddy Wayne and his father make their way down the slick tongue of green water that leads to the maw of Lava Falls. Up front, Gene carries his paddle at the ready, while Wayne digs in with long oars, shifting the 18-ft boat. It drops off the lip of the falls, and one after another, waves detonate off the rubber. Shuddering with effort, Wayne keeps the raft in the heart of the current. An old pro, he’s through safely in just a few seconds. A loud cheer goes up—and even as I raise my voice, I ponder my own chances.

When it comes to a major river like the Colorado, there's no such thing as a sure thing, except perhaps the adventure of a lifetime. Forgive the cliché. As I drift into Lava, the boats ahead bob as if in slow motion. Although whitewater usually produces a rush, I feel remarkably calm as I brace against the waves and row, row, row out of harm's way.

Downstream, we raise a boisterous toast. We'll have another week on the water, but for the time being, the future doesn't matter. We're here now.

The Information

Getting There

Located in the western US state of Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park can be reached by car from Phoenix or Flagstaff, or via a five-hour drive from Las Vegas, Nevada. Head for the South Rim, where the Colorado River runs through the heart of the park.

When to Go

The Grand Canyon offers different experiences in all seasons. Most rafting takes place between April and October, with summer vacations being a peak period for rafters, despite the heat of the desert.

Where to Stay

In addition to abundant campgrounds, the Xanterra Company operates several inns at the national park. The 100-year-old El Tovar Hotel, located on the South Rim, is the most luxurious. There are also lodgings just outside the park.

Pro Tip

Even if you can't find the time for a full-length raft trip, the South Rim is truly one of the natural wonders of the world. However, it can be crowded with tourists. The best way to escape the crowds is to take a hike into the canyon. There are both day trips and overnight camps available, and if hiking isn't your thing, you can opt for a donkey ride into the canyon. Once again, Xanterra is the main concessionaire. The best destination for an overnight trip is Phantom Ranch, though it's a tough day trip for those who are up for the challenge.