Nestled deep in the jungles of northern Cambodia, far from the tourist-trodden paths of Angkor Wat, lies Koh Ker, a mysterious, ancient city that once served as the capital of the Khmer Empire. Visiting Koh Ker felt like discovering a secret chapter of Cambodian history, one wrapped in dense forest, majestic ruins, and a surreal sense of isolation.
The core of Koh Ker in Cambodia is its archaeological site, with more than 180 temples dispersed throughout the jungle. The most stunning of them all is Prasat Thom, a seven-story pyramid temple that bursts forth from the forest floor. As you climb to the summit, every tier uncovers not only a glimpse of the surrounding wilderness, but a mesmerising feeling of time frozen.
A short tuk-tuk ride away, you have the pleasure of strolling through Prasat Pram, where tree roots hug decaying stone towers, a lesser version of Ta Prohm's beauty minus the throngs of tourists. Prasat Chen, another gem, contains nicely preserved carvings of Hindu gods and goddesses, a sobering reminder of the spiritual fervor that once abounded here. Every temple you see has a story to tell, some of victory, some of mystery, all set against the background of cicada noise and the scent of damp soil and moss.
The ancient temples are spread out across a wide area, and renting a motorbike or hiring a local driver is the best way to explore them. Each site feels untouched, allowing moments of quiet reflection and discovery.
Golden hour at Prasat Thom offers one of the most magical photo opportunities you will ever see. If you enjoy sketching or journaling, this place is made for you. Its gives you the opportunity to connect with your creativity.
In nearby villages, you can stop for fresh coconut water and end up learning about how the community lives alongside these ancient ruins. Their stories bring a whole new layer of meaning to the trip.
Some NGOs have helped support local education, culture, and crafts here. Purchasing handwoven scarves or wood carvings directly supports the village economy.
Koh Ker itself is remote, so accommodation options are modest but authentic. Here are some options to consider.
If you want a homely vibe, you can stay at a simple yet welcoming homestay with a local family. The meals are home-cooked (think lemongrass soup, sticky rice, and fresh mango), and the experience feels more intimate than any hotel.
About an hour's drive away, these towns offer a few basic guesthouses with fan-cooled rooms and clean facilities. Preah Vihear Boutique Hotel is a favorite among travelers for its peaceful garden and local hospitality.
If you're short on time or prefer more comfort, you can base yourself in Siem Reap and do Koh Ker as a day trip, though some would argue staying overnight adds a magical, unhurried dimension to the experience.
While Koh Ker may not have restaurants with menus or neon signs, it offers something far more meaningful: home-style Khmer cooking made with heart, heritage, and harvests from the land.
Staying in a homestay allows you to dine like a local. The food is straightforward, fresh, and full of spirit. You might attempt samlor korko, a traditional vegetable soup with moringa leaves, green papaya, eggplant, and fermented fish paste. A couple more items to try would be the trey chha, a river fish pan-fried with lemongrass, garlic, and basil, typically caught from a nearby stream. Another local dish to try would be prahok ktiss, a rich dip consisting of fermented fish, coconut milk, and minced pork, served with raw vegetables. And, finally, sticky rice with grilled meat skewers is best for breakfast or a snack following a tiring day of discovery.
If you pass through Srayang Village or nearby areas, look out for local snacks like nom banh chok (Khmer noodles) and rice noodles served cold with a green fish curry and fresh herbs, bamboo sticky rice (kralan), sweet sticky rice, black beans, and coconut milk cooked inside bamboo tubes. Grilled bananas and sweet potatoes, roasted over coals and sold by roadside vendors are some more must-try dishes. Sugar palm juice, a sweet, slightly fermented drink tapped fresh from palm trees is a refreshing thirst quencher.
A few drinks to try in Koh Ker would be iced Khmer coffee, a strong and sweet drink made for the tropical heat. Fresh coconut water, straight from the tree, would add a refreshing element to your day. And lastly, do have their herbal teas, made with lemongrass, ginger, and pandan leaves.
While Koh Ker and its nearby villages like Srayang are remote, they offer authentic Cambodian culinary experiences. A must-visit is the Koh Ker Jungle Lodge, which serves hearty, home-style meals using locally sourced ingredients—don’t miss their samlor korko, sticky rice with grilled pork, and refreshing lemongrass tea. In Srayang Village, stop at Srayang Restaurant, a humble but popular roadside spot perfect for trying nom banh chok (Khmer noodles) and fried river fish with sugar palm juice. For those heading in from Siem Reap, Mom’s Family Kitchen near Beng Mealea is a cosy roadside eatery known for its prahok ktiss and coconut sticky rice. If you’re traveling slightly farther, Domnak Domrei Restaurant near Phnom Kulen is ideal for groups, offering Khmer BBQ, pumpkin coconut curry, and strong iced Khmer coffee. Finally, the Srayang Morning Market food stalls are unmissable—grab freshly grilled sweet potatoes, kralan (bamboo sticky rice), and fried taro cakes while mingling with locals at sunrise.
The ideal time to visit Koh Ker is between November and March, during Cambodia’s dry season. The weather is cooler and the temple grounds are easier to explore. While May to October brings rain and humidity, the greenery is lush and the sites are quieter.
Koh Ker is about 120 km from Siem Reap and takes around 2.5 to 3 hours by car or motorbike. You can hire a private taxi, tuk-tuk, or join a day tour. Public transport is limited, so booking transport in advance is recommended.
Temples are spread out, so walking isn’t practical. The best way to explore is by tuk-tuk, motorbike, or scooter, which you can arrange in nearby Srayang Village. Hiring a local guide with a vehicle adds both convenience and insight.
Bring cash, as there are no ATMs. Pack water, sunscreen, and insect repellent, and wear modest, breathable clothing. Offline maps are handy, as network signals may be weak. Start early, and let locals know your travel plans if staying overnight.