Swiftly, as I strolled past the ticket counter on a chilly dawn, the site was barely visible due to the opaque mists rising from the swirling low clouds across the mountains. Magically, in a few minutes, the clouds flew apart, making way for magnificent views of the wonderland as the entire ancient city dazzled in the early morning sunrays. A rich, velvety green carpet covered the site, which appeared taller than a 10-story building, surrounded by the Andes peaks. My jetlag from the three transcontinental fights vanished faster than the clouds.
The book “The Lost City of Incas” by Hiram Birgham, widely regarded as the discoverer of the lost city, sparked a lasting desire in my mind to visit the site. I recalled how the first view of the citadel corroborated his words encore: “In the variety of its charms and the power of its spell, I know of no other place in the world which can compare with it.”
I can only imagine how the monumental rocks, manicured with excellent craftsmanship, would have been moved up, down and across to create this flourishing city. The citadel is an amazing engineering marvel in all its grandeur!
Machu Picchu was built during the reign of the Inca Emperor Pachacuti. It was inhabited from around A.D. 1420 to A.D. 1530. However, the site was abandoned and there are no credible theories as to why the Incas abandoned it, despite painstakingly constructing it.
One theory suggests that during the Spanish invasion of Peru, the Incas left in a hurry to keep themselves safe when they heard awful stories about the brutality inflicted by the invaders on the neighbouring settlers.
Around 100 years ago, Hiram Bingham III, a Yale University professor of Latin American History made the first trip around the site, supported by the local Peruvian government. However, he highlighted in the book that the lost city was previously discovered in 1902 by a Peruvian explorer named Lizárraga. Then, there were charcoal inscriptions mentioning the name and year. However, Hiram Bingham made efforts to clean up the overgrown forests and presented the citadel to the local authorities for further study. He also discovered thousands of artefacts belonging to the Inca civilisation, which now decorate multiple museums across the world. It’s widely believed that his expeditions inspired the creation of the character Indiana Jones by George Lucas and Steven Spielberg for the eponymous Hollywood series.
The site itself consists of around 200 structures including plazas, large houses, and courtyards. Of these, the Temple of the Sun, and the Temple of the Condor (a majestic bird) are unique. It’s a mystery how architects transported such large rocks to such heights, chiselled them to perfection, and built walls without any cement! It’s widely believed that llamas, typical Peruvian native animals, were used for the transportation of rocks and other necessary materials.
The Lost City of Incas, officially called The Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu, is located in the Peruvian Andes, surrounded by tropical forests. The literal translation of the word "Machu Picchu" is “old mountain or peak” in Quechua, which is still a sparingly spoken dialect in Peru.
Machu Picchu was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983. In 2007, it was also declared as one of the new seven wonders of the modern world, along with the Taj Mahal, and The Great Wall of China. Today, around 1.5 million tourists visit Machu Picchu every year, owing to a government-mandated cap on the daily number to the site.
The site is divided into three circuits, namely Panoramic, Classic, and Royalty Circuit. Each area has segregated paths, and intermingling within circuits is not allowed.
The circuits are designed to manage the seamless movement of visitors and preserve the archaeological site. There is also a limit on the number of visitors—4,500 during the low season, and 5,600 during the high season.
As you appreciate the palaces, stone houses, irrigation systems, kitchens, tombs, and sacrificial reserves, you wonder how the ancient lifestyle would have evolved.
At the Royal Tomb, sacrificial rituals and ceremonial baths were conducted. The site is also filled with mysterious temples such as the Temple of the Condor, the Temple of 3 Windows, and the Temple of the Sun. One of the most remarkable features is the Intihuatana Stone (also known as the Sacred Sun Plaza), which stands at the highest elevation on the site. The site has corners pointing to the four cardinal points, and a sundial endorsing Incan knowledge of astronomy. The houses, built without mortar, are another interesting observation. They use a technique called ashlar masonry where stones are cut so precisely that they fit together perfectly.
As a first-timer, take the Classic Circuit. Spare time to visit the museum, located right at the entrance. To make the most of your time, stay on-site at Sanctuary Lodge by Belmond, located just outside the main entrance where shuttle buses operate.
You might reach Timbuktu faster than Machu Picchu, literally! From India, you need to take around three flights to reach the nearest city of Cusco, the base for Machu Picchu.
Cusco has limited direct international flights; Peru's capital, Lima, offers the most convenient connection instead. Consider flying to any European city like Paris or Frankfurt, and take an onward flight to Lima. From Lima, Cusco is an hour-long flight away.
The journey from Cusco to Machu Picchu starts with a bus or taxi ride to Ollantaytambo railway station, located in Aguas Calientes, a resort town full of hot springs. Two local train companies—Peru Rail, and Inca Rail—operate services, complete with large panoramic windows that offer views of the scenic Andean landscapes. The Vistadome trains have glass-domed roofs for better viewing.
The railway stations also have a few coffee shops and restaurants serving Peruvian quick bites and drinks. They also regularly host traditional Cusco dances and fashion shows. Some trains organise similar shows onboard, which you can enjoy while sipping on Pisco Sour, Peru's national drink.
Once you reach Aguas Calientes, a shuttle bus takes you to the site in roughly half an hour. The same shuttle also brings you back to the town after you're done exploring Macchu Picchu.
Note that your passport is mandatorily checked while boarding the train and shuttle. It is also checked at the archeological site.
This journey from Cusco to Machu Picchu is usually undertaken as a day trip, though multi-day trips can also be planned.
Indians need to apply for a tourist visa at the Embassy of Peru, New Delhi. Visa costs around INR 2,550 and takes roughly seven to 10 days to process. If you have a valid visa (with six months validity) from USA, Canada, UK, Australia, or the Schengen area, you may get a visa on arrival.
Every day is a good day to visit the site! Machu Picchu, and its surrounding areas, fall under subtropical climates so the rainy season from December to March is best avoided. However, this time of the year is also quiet as fewer tourists visit. The peak summer season runs from June to August; it’s advisable to book months prior as there are limited tickets available.
English is not widely spoken in Peru, except in key tourist areas. It’s helpful to know some basic Spanish phrases as most booking websites are in Spanish.
You may even face issues with international credit card payments. Agents can help iron out these logistics.
Hire a guide to explore the citadel. However, you will have to pay an additional INR 100 per person to do so. Most bookings through agents are non-refundable, though some offer limited rescheduling.
Peruvian currency is SOL, and 1 USD converts to 3.67.
Credit cards are widely accepted. However, it’s always better to convert cash into SOL through banks or authorised money exchange houses called Cambios.
ATMs accept international cards to dispense local currency but usually charge hefty conversion rates. Decline conversion to your local currency. Tipping is not expected but appreciated.