Here's Why This Historical Drinking Alley Should Be On Your List Of Places To Visit In Japan

To see a city, visit its monuments and museums. To know a city, venture into the narrow alleys. And while in Tokyo, Japan, there may be hundreds, there's one that you must not skip. Located near the West Exit of the world's busiest station, Shinjuku, a narrow alley packed with 60 tiny bars is where you can come closest to knowing the Tokyo of the past. This lane goes by the name Omoide Yokocho, which translates to "memory lane" in English. To strengthen its link to the past, "Omoide" also loosely translates to "nostalgia." 

History Of The Alley

Omoide Yokocho's history takes us back to the time right after World War II when it was originally established as a black market in the late 1940s. The crowded lane was where one headed for cheap drinks and yakitori. But its fame didn't limit itself to being known as the spot to hit for a drink or two. It also gradually earned the name "piss alley" because when drunken patrons had to relieve themselves, the old-school street didn't give them any option but to take to the streets. 

In the 1990s, tragedy struck when it was partially uprooted for the construction of the Shinjuku station, followed by a fire. The part that survived was preserved, and the section destroyed by the fire was restored to its original look by the government. After all that, it still is known for its thriving drinking and dining scene among travellers and locals. 

Where To Eat

When walking along Omoide Yokocho, one can easily get confused about where to stop. The short answer is wherever you find an empty spot because the strip is the heart of Tokyo's thriving food scene and is buzzing with people once the sun sets. But if you are committed to having the best experience and want to know the best spots, here are our recommendations 

Kabuto: This tiny street stall spills onto the already tight street. But their unagi is worth finding yourself wedged between groups of three or four. The stall draws people for its unagi skewer, which, when paired with nihonshu (Japanese sake), transports you to culinary heaven. 

Tachan: Tachan blends in with the other skewer spots in Omoide Yokocho but stands out with its exceptional food offerings. One that you must try out is the marinated tuna, along with grilled vegetables and skewered meats, all barbecued over charcoal. Also, try their signature dish, tsukune, consisting of chicken meatballs served with a sweet-savoury sauce and an egg yolk. 

Yasubee: Located by the train tracks, Yasubee elevates the street-side bar experience with polished and spacious interiors. This restaurant reigns as a must-visit, for it has been around since 1951, and that's just a bonus to its extensive list of nihonshu - sourced from all over Japan. The 

The menu features a few classics and several interesting options. Start with izakaya items like grilled white fish marinated in miso and advance to more unique dishes like fugu (pufferfish) skin seasoned with citrus vinegar. One of the highlights is the motsu nikomi, a rich stew of beef shank, tendon, and tripe that pairs excellently with a glass of rice wine.

Sushitatsu: Sushitatsu is the only sushi restaurant in Omoide Yokocho, and it has a long-standing history in the area. The restaurant has a traditional and old-school atmosphere, and you can strike up a conversation with sushi master Kenji Murakami. There are no menus here instead, a line of wooden planks behind the counter lists the available fish for the day in kanji and offers two omakase (chef's choice) options. Enjoy a variety of nigiri sushi, dashimaki tamago (omelette), clam miso soup, and maki rolls wrapped with minced fatty tuna, shiso leaves, and pickled daikon.

Tajimaya Coffehouse: Tajimaya Coffehouse is a charming Japanese kissaten (coffeehouse) that combines European-style tea cups with a vintage Showa-era interior. The staff at Tajimaya pay meticulous attention to detail, hand-sifting through green coffee beans and roasting them in-house. The menu also features cakes, sandwiches, and nostalgic kissaten favourites like coffee jelly with heavy cream or buttered toast with sweet red bean paste.

The Information 

Omoide Yokocho is an authentic experience of Tokyo's culinary culture, but it is not intimidating to tourists. Instead, its popularity among them has encouraged owners to even provide menus in English. It is approximately five minutes from Shinjuku station, and the best time to visit is at night.