Spice And Heritage: The Unique Chutneys Of Jharkhand

Growing up in Jharkhand, I've always been enchanted by the state's culinary landscape. Here, the local cuisine never fails to surprise with its depth and variety. What I find most intriguing about this eastern state's food culture is the omnipresence of chutneys. Unlike in other parts of the country where chutneys are side dishes, they often take centre stage here.

One of my earliest and fondest memories is of my mother making aam koocha, a green mango chutney—a concoction that brings together the tartness of raw mangoes with the earthy flavours of turmeric, red chilli, asafoetida, and cumin. It remains a family favourite with my brother having taken on the onus of making jars of aam koocha every mango season, which we relish with steamed rice, simple chana dal tadka, and aloo bhujiya.

Chutneys in Jharkhand are a celebration of local and seasonal produce. They can be made from fruits, leaves, nuts, and sometimes meat and insects, mixed with various condiments like tomatoes, curd, and onions. The possibilities are endless, influenced by the region, season, and local preferences.

Chutneys have a rich history that dates back over 2,000 years. These sauces or pastes were made from fresh ingredients to preserve surplus seasonal produce. Food historian KT Achaya believes that the earliest evidence of chutneys comes from the Indus Valley civilisation, where hand grinders were discovered during archaeological digs. As trade routes expanded, the concept of chutneys reached ancient Rome, where they were used for food preservation and eventually spread throughout Europe. The word "chutney" in English is thought to have roots in Sanskrit. Some historians suggest it comes from the word "chathani," which means crushed, while the Hindi "chatni" comes from the word "lick."

Jharkhand, rich in forest resources, reflects its natural abundance in its unique and diverse cuisines. One of the lesser-known chutneys from this state is made of phutkal saag. Tribal communities venture deep into the forests to gather these rare leaves that can be sun-dried for long-term storage or boiled in the season to make a chutney with garlic, tomato, chilli, onion, and a few other spices, all blended with mustard oil. Unlike the raw aam koocha, this chutney is cooked and helps regulate body temperature. Another distinct chutney is made from beng saag (Brahmi), a monsoon vegetable found exclusively in the state. Tribal people often prepare a chutney from this slightly bitter plant, balancing its taste with tamarind's tartness and mustard oil's zest.

While these chutneys are somewhat rare, the non-tribal population commonly makes chutney from kudrum flowers, a variety of hibiscus. This chutney is prepared by grinding the flower petals with salt, sugar, chilli, ginger, and garlic, resulting in a sweet and sour flavour. My neighbour in Jharkhand often made this chutney, sharing it with us and extolling its health benefits, from its high Vitamin C content to its role in strengthening bones and teeth.

Last on the list, and one of my favourites, is demta chutney, also known as red ant chutney. This unique chutney recently received a GI tag in Odisha, but British chef Gordon Ramsay truly brought it to the world's attention during his visit to India in 2010. The chutney is made by pounding red ants and their eggs with chilli and salt, resulting in a spicy, piquant chutney with a natural sourness from the ants' inherent acidity. This chutney is particularly savoured during Tusu, a tribal festival, paired with a local favourite called pitta.

Meanwhile, Major Grey's Mango Chutney stands out as the most popular among colonial chutneys. This sweet blend of mango, raisins, chillies, garlic, vinegar, sugar, and spices has captivated many. The true identity of Major Grey remains a mystery, with many believing that he was a fictional character created by a clever brand marketer rather than an actual British officer and his Bengali cook.

However, these rare chutneys and the ingredients they are made with face challenges due to environmental changes and habitat loss. Also, they aren't as popular as more common ones like mint, coriander, chilli, tomato, or flaxseed.

I hope that one day, when others travel to Jharkhand, they explore areas beyond Ranchi and knock on the doors of local people like I do, asking for what is local and indigenous. I also wish these rare chutneys gain popularity and become mainstream, enticing food enthusiasts to travel to Jharkhand for a taste. So, next time you plan your travels, let Jharkhand's unique chutneys be your culinary compass, guiding you to a gastronomic adventure. Discover, taste, and savour the hidden flavours of this region.

Sadaf Hussain is a food columnist, cookbook author, and chef who has been a MasterChef India finalist