Located just a few kilometres southeast of Leh, the quiet town of Choglamsar might seem like a typical Ladakhi settlement at first glance. But step into one of its modest workshops, and you’ll discover a world where ancient stories come alive—not on canvas, but on intricately painted wooden tables. These aren’t just pieces of furniture; they Junare testaments to a centuries-old tradition passed down through generations of artisans.
Choglamsar is more than a suburb of Leh—it is a cultural heartbeat, a confluence of Tibetan and Ladakhi traditions. It is home to one of the largest Tibetan refugee settlements in the region, and this has greatly influenced its artistic identity. Here, in sunlit courtyards and small ateliers, artisans specialise in Tibetan-style wood painting, often adorning tables, boxes, chests, and cabinets with sacred motifs, dragons, lotuses, and auspicious symbols.
These tables, known locally as "chog-tse", are used in monasteries and homes, often for offerings or prayer. But their appeal has extended far beyond their ceremonial purpose over the years. With their ornate carvings, vibrant colours, and spiritual iconography, they have found admirers across the globe.
Each piece begins with raw wood, usually sourced from poplar or pine, shaped into compact, sturdy tables with curved legs and a recessed surface. But the magic lies in the painting. Using natural pigments and brushes made of animal hair, the artisans fill the wood with colour. Red, yellow, blue, green, and gold dominate the palette, each hue steeped in symbolic meaning. The process is slow and deliberate, often involving several layers of paint, intricate detailing, and a final coat of lacquer to seal the brilliance.
Step into a workshop, and you might see a craftsman bent over a tabletop, steadily outlining a deity or a mythical snow lion. Often, traditional Tibetan Buddhist themes—such as the eight auspicious symbols (Ashtamangala), the Wheel of Dharma, or a serene Bodhisattva—take centre stage. For these artisans, their work is a form of devotion as much as a livelihood.
As the world has turned its eyes toward Ladakh’s rich cultural offerings in recent years, Choglamsar’s artisan community has seen a quiet revival. NGOs and cultural preservation groups have been working alongside locals to document and promote this endangered art form. There’s growing interest among tourists and collectors who seek out these painted tables as authentic, handcrafted souvenirs—tokens of Ladakh’s spiritual heritage.
Some artisans now offer short workshops, allowing travellers to experience the joy of traditional Tibetan painting firsthand. It’s a unique opportunity to slow down and immerse oneself in a meditative craft.
While in Choglamsar, travellers can also explore nearby attractions. The Central Institute of Buddhist Studies stands just around the corner—where monks and laypeople study Buddhist philosophy, languages, and art. The Shey and Thiksey monasteries are also a short drive away, offering panoramic views of the Indus Valley and deeper insights into Ladakh’s monastic culture.
And yet, it's Choglamsar's humble workshops that often leave the most lasting impression. In a fast-changing world, they remain sanctuaries of tradition—where colour, spirituality, and heritage are carefully brushed into being, one table at a time.
Best Time To Visit: May to September or between April and October if you prefer a smaller crowd when Ladakh is accessible and the weather is pleasant.
Getting There: Choglamsar is about 8 km from Leh and easily reachable by car, bike, or a leisurely cycle ride along the Indus River.