How Iranian Motorcyclist Maral Yazarloo Is Riding For Change

I am from Iran, and women are not allowed to ride motorbikes or cycles there. We don't have a lot of freedom to do what we want. When I came to India in 2004 to pursue my Master's degree and, subsequently, a PhD from Pune, I happened to meet a friend who was passionate about motorbikes, and he taught me how to ride a bike. We started slowly, but I soon picked up and got my bike, the Harley Davidson 1200 cc, 12 years ago. Since then, I have been around the world on my bike.

I enjoyed travelling through Arunachal Pradesh. Although I crossed the state while heading to Myanmar once before, the last time I visited the state was special as I got to explore it extensively. It is so pristine and untouched that you still experience the local culture that has remained unchanged over the years; it is commonplace to spot locals in their traditional attires. That stands out to me because it's not something you can enjoy in big cities or popular tourist destinations. Even though it has caught travellers' attention, the people of the state have managed to preserve their diverse and unique traditions.

Since I am also a fashion designer, their textile tradition of weaving on loin looms featuring patterns unique to each tribe is very interesting. And I can't gush enough about how scenic and wonderful the roads are. Riding through Arunachal Pradesh is exciting as it presents a mix of experiences. Some parts are perfect for off-roading, such as the way leading to Namdapha National Park. Off-roading is difficult, but I love the thrills.

My first long ride on the Harley for about 300 km from Bombay to Pune was, at that point, the most significant ride of my life, but now that I look back, it was only the beginning.

The world trip, where I travelled continuously for one and a half years across seven continents and 64 countries, is my life's most significant ride—I lived in tents, cooked my meals, and did everything on my own.

On that trip, I also rode across my birthplace, Iran, and was the first Iranian woman to be granted permission. That was particularly important because, on that trip, I submitted my plea to the Iranian government to change the law and allow women motorcyclists to ride across Iran.

I started the "Lady Riders of India" club in 2015; in 2016, it was officially launched. But before that, I had started "Ladies of Harley" in India, when I was always the only one among 600 men. There were only a handful of women motorcyclists. Most women joined us on those trips because they were accompanying their husbands. Eventually, the "Ladies of Harley" began to grow, with more than a 1000 women motorcyclists joining us. Then, I thought we should not be divided by the make of the bike, which is why I launched the "Lady Riders of India" club. Since the club was started with the intention to change the narrative around women motorcyclists, we only inducted those who had crossed a minimum of 10,000 kilometres. The club is about bringing women motorcyclists together and creating a culture and a safe space that encourages more women to participate in the sport.

Riding across India has been a very pleasant experience. Initially, I used to travel in a big group, but gradually, I joined smaller groups on expeditions across India, and now I love to travel solo with my bike. It's definitely not easy, given that you need to know how to speak the local language and be aware of your surroundings. But it is important not to compromise when it comes to safety. For instance, I avoid riding at night and am very selective about where I stop to catch a break. I also ensure that I am not stranded in an unknown location alone.

For some unknown reason, all my rides in Kerala were so much fun. Leh is another all-time favourite place to ride across. In addition, Rajasthan is a great spot for its diverse landscape—you can see the mountains and the desert while also getting a glimpse of the small towns. It is extremely difficult to pick just one spot across India since every state is so different from the other, from their culture to food to their clothes.