The thought of Mumbai&rsquos Wellington Pier today &mdash with all its associations of hopped-up tourism, hopped-up commerce and the inevitable subconscious jag of men in speedboats bearing their sinister cargo &mdash is not anywhere nearly as calming as it was in 1880. Apollo Bunder, as it was then called, was merely an embarkation and disembarkation point for passengers and goods &mdash the main traffic being in docras (bags) of cotton. To the walkers clustered by the waterfront, inhaling the then-fresher sea breeze, the harbour presented a pleasantly bustling sight, with hundreds of wooden ships and thousands of native vessels floating before them.