If you are a coffee worshipper, Ethiopia is the holy land and a pilgrimage is obligatory. It&rsquos also a pleasure. I never tired of the infinite range of caf&eacutes tucked into balconies and storefronts all over Addis Ababa. The brief Italian occupation in the 1940s has left its stamp in the availability of macchiato, but the thick black local brew remains dominant and everyone is fiercely proud of warding off the neo-colonial incursions of Starbucks. Since I was there for Easter I was treated to several &lsquocoffee ceremonies&rsquo conducted for some reason on grass-strewn floors. The ceramic coffeepot was a gift. I bought the powder for 9 Birr (about Rs 40) much to the disappointment of my hosts who said coffee is not coffee unless you roast and grind it yourself.