Discovering Delhi In The Rains With These Heritage Walks

“The first sounds I ever heard were those of falling rain.”
That’s how Alexander Frater begins his acclaimed travel book Chasing the Monsoon. In this seminal account of the Indian monsoon, the British-Australian writer highlights Delhi as a key stop on his journey tracking the rains across the subcontinent. He captures the city’s complex relationship with the monsoon — a season that brings both emotional relief and logistical challenges. Mirza Hairat Dehlavi’s evocative writings about the Phoolwalon Ki Sair festival in Mehrauli further illustrate how deeply the rains shape Delhi’s cultural and social life. Perhaps, the best way to experience the magic of the monsoon is to take a walk — to wander through the city and uncover the many stories woven into its rain-soaked streets. Few things compare to the joy of exploring an urban landscape under a curtain of falling rain. As the monsoon clouds roll into Delhi, painting the city green and washing the dust off centuries-old ruins, a different kind of urban adventure begins—one where history, poetry, nature, and rain intermingle. 

Monsoon Heritage Walks In Delhi

This July and August, Delhi By Foot, a heritage walking tours initiative founded by Ramit Mitra, is bringing the city’s forgotten stories to life with a series of monsoon-themed walks through its historic landscapes. One of the highlights this monsoon is a walk through the Mehrauli Archaeological Park. “Mehrauli was once the highest point in the city—a thousand years ago, people would go there for picnics,” Mitra says. This walk blends historical storytelling with poetry, drawing from the verses of the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, who was himself a poet and deeply connected to Delhi. The site, with its layers of Sultanate, Mughal, becomes a canvas for exploring both the tangible ruins and the intangible cultural memories of the monsoon.

Another walk takes participants to the Northern Ridge, a forested area brimming with stories that span centuries—from royal hunting grounds to battlegrounds of rebellion. “The Ridge has seen it all—Sultans, dacoits, Marathas, the British,” says Mitra. It played a vital role during the 1857 revolt, especially during the monsoon months when the British laid siege to Delhi. Its elevation made it a crucial site for military strategy—and now, a key stop for monsoon storytelling. 

“These are the monsoon stories we want to unearth,” says Mitra. 

The walks also trace the "naalas" of Delhi—the city’s natural stormwater drains, which were historically part of its complex water management system. Often overlooked or dismissed today, these channels once flowed into the Yamuna and were integral to the city’s planning, green cover, and public spaces.

One particularly engaging walk will explore the Hauz Khas area blends ancient engineering with modern-day culture. “'Hauz' means reservoir,” Mitra explains. “What you see today was a natural depression, which was dug deeper, turned into a water body by Alauddin Khilji.” Originally known as Hauz-i-Alai, it was later revived by Firoz Shah Tughlaq, who not only cleaned the silted lake but also established a university complex around it—now often mistaken as a fort. “We tell people—those aren’t fort ruins, that’s a university,” Mitra says. The walk will look at the evolving of Hauz Khas into a bohemian urban space, filled with quirky shops, cafes, and art studios, all built around the magnetism of the water body and surrounding heritage.

Water, in fact, is a recurring theme in many of these walks, especially during the rains. Delhi By Foot has also partnered with WaterAid to create thematic walks centered around water heritage, including visits to the city's baolis—stepwells that once served as essential public utilities and gathering spots.

Despite the occasional downpour, Mitra believes the monsoon is the perfect season to explore Delhi. “The weather is cool, the air is clean, and everything is lush,” he says. “People worry about getting drenched, but honestly—that’s the joy of walking in the rain.”

If you are interested in signing up, you can check out their website - www.delhibyfoot.in and Instagram - www.instagram.com/delhibyfoot.

Things To See On Heritage Walks In Delhi

As the monsoon clouds roll into Delhi, they bring more than just cool breezes and welcome showers—they also usher in a vibrant influx of feathered visitors. “Monsoon in Delhi brings a host of special birds,” says Nikhil Devasar, a bird photographer, author, and co-founder of delhibird, one of the country’s most active birdwatching communities. “We do walks almost every weekend.”

One of their walk locations is Bhondsi Nature Park, tucked into the rugged contours of the Aravalli hills near Gurgaon. Here, thick scrub forests and rocky outcrops create an ideal setting for a wide variety of birdlife. Another regular stop is Chandu Budhera, a lesser-known wetland on Gurgaon’s outskirts that transforms into an avian haven during the rains. And Dhanauri Wetland in Greater Noida—a shimmering mosaic of water, reeds, and sky. Designated an Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife International, Dhanauri is a vital breeding ground for many species, most notably the elegant and vulnerable Sarus Crane (Antigone antigone).

“This time of year, we not only see our resident species, but also birds that migrate from the south of India to breed,” Devasar explains. “At Bhondsi, we’ve been spotting nesting Indian Pittas and Asian Paradise Flycatchers. At Dhanauri, the Sarus Cranes are always the star attraction.”

The group also hosts specialised walks focusing on dragonflies, offering nature lovers a deeper appreciation for urban biodiversity. One of their go-to spots is Sunder Nursery, a lush heritage park in the heart of Delhi. “It’s excellent for spotting dragonflies,” says Devasar. “You’ll find species like the Crimson-tailed Marsh Hawk, Scarlet Skimmer, Common Picture Wing, and the Orange-tailed Marsh Dart damselfly.”