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THANJAVUR 1
An emperor's vision
By Janaki Venkataraman

One of the most important towns in the Cauvery Delta, Thanjavur was once the capital of a kingdom so fertile that elephants rather than horses or oxen were used to thrash the abundant paddy. Visitors will be surprised by the glimpses of ancient buildings almost on every street or, at the very least, ruins that are more magnificent than the latest buildings man claims to be proud of. At once stately and gracious, Thanjavur soars grandly above the dust of humdrum modernity, resonating with the generosity of the Chola, Nayak and Maratha rulers who reigned here in a manner so powerful that they almost do so to this day. This is the town where even the autorickshaw driver will speak knowledgeably about both politics and classical music , he is heir to a culture, which, for hundreds of years, nourished and celebrated literature and the arts. Talk to him, or simply listen to stones speak

Legends and mythology
Thanjavur or Thanjan's ur, is the town named after the asura Thanjan, who, according to legend, was slain on the banks of the Cauvery by Lord Vishnu. As he lay dying, Thanjan prayed to Lord Vishnu that a town of great beauty rise at the spot where he was slain, and that it be named after him. His wish was granted and Thanjan's ur was born.

Architecture and antiquity
Although our legends give our temples antiquity running to thousands of years, the architectural history of Tamil Nadu, as we know it, begins from the 7th century CE. Many of the sthalas could have existed before that, but in structures that could have crumbled and had to be later rebuilt in stone by the Cholas, among others. Each temple supported an entire community of people who were connected with its activities: from flower sellers, priests, sculptors, masons, goldsmiths, carpenters, dancers, musicians and cooks to the farmers who ploughed the temple's lands.

Successive generations of devout kings bequeathed enormous tracts of lands to these temples, which supported not just the maintenance of the temple, but also sustained the livelihoods of the communities that were connected with them. Most of the stone inscriptions in the temples refer to bequests made by kings and commoners to them , by way of land, ornaments, vessels, lamps or houses. Perhaps the biggest tragedy that has befallen temples and temple-based communities in recent times is the taking over of temple lands and properties by unscrupulous elements. Far from being dispensers of charity, temples have now become receivers of charity. Nevertheless, Thanjavur is home to some of the world's finest temple architecture.